Oh, 2nd night bus in a few nights. This time I'd bought my own sleeping pills.
I was in severe pain and hoping they'd work like magic. (Ok, to clarify, these are non addictive, muscle relaxer, anti anxiety, etc pills... used for lots of things including insomnia.)
I got SOOO lucky and got a whole seat to myself. I was the only Westerner and they didn't mix us with the locals. Totally glad I was traveling alone!
Well, this road was the WORST road. Bumpy, turny, crazy, words don't describe it. Now most people take a 2 day slow boat to avoid this bus trip... but I didn't have time so I had to endure.
The pills didn't work. Well, i was slamming my head, falling off the seat, and just plain being thrown about too much to have any sleep.
A funny part of the journey. We stopped around 5 am and I had to use the bathroom. We were supposed to pay 1000 kip (like 13 cents) but I literally only had enough kip to get me the tuk tuk and boat across the border and not 1000 to spare!) so I used it without paying. I ignored the guy when he was shouting at me... he ran after me and kept shouting at me. I kept saying sorry, I don't have any. No money, no kip, sorry, sorry. He was sooo pissed. The girl on the seat in front offered to pay for me and he wouldn't take her money (for me) because he wanted me to pay... but i literally had no money. And mind you i saw a couple guys go in and not pay.. and they don't evne have to use the stupid toilets as they can go anywhere! Ugh, I hate being female sometimes!
So we get to the Thai border town around 930 am (16 hours after being picked up at my GH) and get to the river. Now everyone had apparantely booked their ticket all the way to Chaing Mai, except me. I knew it'd be cheaper to do it as two separarte journeys... except I refused to tke out more Kip at the atm. So I finally convinced the guy to give me a seat in the bus (along with the boat to cross the river.. which is the official border) and that I'd take out Baht to pay him in thailand. Kip is useless and each time you use an ATM in this part of the world its about a $5 fee, and I didn't want more kip and didn't wnat to pay the fee twice in one day!! I paid the guy.. we waited for awhile and got in a mini bus.
At one point towards the end my back was so bad along with my neck/legs/arms that I was again in tears. Literally, spasming up and down my legs and my neck was so stiff from jarring it I couldn't look at all to the sides.
22 1/2 hours after leaving my GH in Luang Prabang, Laos I arrived at my GH Chiang Mai, Thailand!!!!
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Monday, April 26, 2010
Luang Prabang
This was a place I had been really looking forward to visiting!! There are some amazing treks in the hills surrounding, awesome Wats, and its just supposed to be a great place to chill out.
Well, after a crazy bus ride, where I thought we might go over the side of hills (think roads crazier than NZ!) I made it. At least I had a seat to myself and could stretch out and not get too cramped.
Great, well, as I could hardly move by the time we arrived. I realized there was NO WAY I could do a trek. Instead I explored the awesome night market, found amazing vege food I could eat. Ok, so my excitement was over cucumbers and tomatoes mostly.. but hey, i got a whole plate of food for under $1. Which I could've had that more often!
I went on a walk with the couple to the river and met this lovely Laos guy. We ended up talking for awhile, walking around, and attempting to communicate. He's learning english... and its always a fun adventure. He was going to take me to a Laos bar outside of town but I bailed as I was hurting WAY WAY too much. The couple hours spent with him make me love traveling!
A huge 'tourist attraction' in LP is the morning monk procession. Now, I'm not sure why its so popular there... but I decided to get up and watch. Monks traditionally live off the donations and alms they receive. They walk around at daybreak to receive them.
I couldn't get a straight answer on time. It varied from "5, done by 530, to 6 or done by 6." I decided to get up at 445 and just go with it. I had to break out of the GH and instantly was followed by drunk crazy guy. Turned around, walked the other wahy.. he followed. Repeat and repeat. Walked up to a couple and started talking to them. Turns out, he'd followed them earlier... and continued to follow all of us. He wasn't threatening just creepy and obviously drunk. We wondered what time this process took place and sat on the kerb and waited. The women selling rice showed up.. so at least we knew we were in the right place.
I guess at one point the monks decided they would no longer go around and take offerings because it'd turned into too much of a tourist charade. The city told them they'd hired actors and pretty much MADE them continue doing it. There are MANY customs that go with this tradtion. Including such things as woman being lower than the monks, etc.
Well, the monks soon came.. and soooo did the tacky ANNOYING stupid tourists. I HATE stupid annoying tourists. Again, this deserves its own blog, so I'll stop there. Anyways, I watched, others were rude and in the monks face taking pictures.
I had planned to rent a bike and cycle around to the wats. But that morning I could barely move. Like WAY worse than the day before. I headed back to lay down for 2 hours. Walked around and saw a few Temples. Spent time indoors attempting not to melt in the heat (boy was it hotter than it'd been since Cambodia). I basically spent the day upset that I was in soo much pain that I couldn't do what I'd wanted and knowing I was getting on another crazy long bus ride that night. UGH
Well, after a crazy bus ride, where I thought we might go over the side of hills (think roads crazier than NZ!) I made it. At least I had a seat to myself and could stretch out and not get too cramped.
Great, well, as I could hardly move by the time we arrived. I realized there was NO WAY I could do a trek. Instead I explored the awesome night market, found amazing vege food I could eat. Ok, so my excitement was over cucumbers and tomatoes mostly.. but hey, i got a whole plate of food for under $1. Which I could've had that more often!
I went on a walk with the couple to the river and met this lovely Laos guy. We ended up talking for awhile, walking around, and attempting to communicate. He's learning english... and its always a fun adventure. He was going to take me to a Laos bar outside of town but I bailed as I was hurting WAY WAY too much. The couple hours spent with him make me love traveling!
A huge 'tourist attraction' in LP is the morning monk procession. Now, I'm not sure why its so popular there... but I decided to get up and watch. Monks traditionally live off the donations and alms they receive. They walk around at daybreak to receive them.
I couldn't get a straight answer on time. It varied from "5, done by 530, to 6 or done by 6." I decided to get up at 445 and just go with it. I had to break out of the GH and instantly was followed by drunk crazy guy. Turned around, walked the other wahy.. he followed. Repeat and repeat. Walked up to a couple and started talking to them. Turns out, he'd followed them earlier... and continued to follow all of us. He wasn't threatening just creepy and obviously drunk. We wondered what time this process took place and sat on the kerb and waited. The women selling rice showed up.. so at least we knew we were in the right place.
I guess at one point the monks decided they would no longer go around and take offerings because it'd turned into too much of a tourist charade. The city told them they'd hired actors and pretty much MADE them continue doing it. There are MANY customs that go with this tradtion. Including such things as woman being lower than the monks, etc.
Well, the monks soon came.. and soooo did the tacky ANNOYING stupid tourists. I HATE stupid annoying tourists. Again, this deserves its own blog, so I'll stop there. Anyways, I watched, others were rude and in the monks face taking pictures.
I had planned to rent a bike and cycle around to the wats. But that morning I could barely move. Like WAY worse than the day before. I headed back to lay down for 2 hours. Walked around and saw a few Temples. Spent time indoors attempting not to melt in the heat (boy was it hotter than it'd been since Cambodia). I basically spent the day upset that I was in soo much pain that I couldn't do what I'd wanted and knowing I was getting on another crazy long bus ride that night. UGH
Stairwell acrobatics
HOLY CRAP.
Am I lucky to be alive.
I was walking down the flight of stairs... and once a klutz... always a klutz.
My ankle gave out on me.
I went FLYING.
I did a somersault.
I flew down some more stairs.
And then I CRASHED, SMACKED, and landed.
on TILE.
I was wearing both my backpacks.
Thank goodness.
Well, I could've get up because my arms were bent back in a way (and if you've worn 2 you know how hard it is to get them off) that I couldn't move them.
My legs were already black and blue in spots.
BUT I didn't hit my head or snap anything. And I'm thankful as heck.
Thank goodness. My backpacks really saved me, in that, I know for a fact.
The couple I'd hung out with on and off for the day ran over and helped me up, Marie ran down as well.
Guess what I got to do right after this awesome acrobatic display?
Yup, you guessed it... get on a 8 hour bus trip!
Am I lucky to be alive.
I was walking down the flight of stairs... and once a klutz... always a klutz.
My ankle gave out on me.
I went FLYING.
I did a somersault.
I flew down some more stairs.
And then I CRASHED, SMACKED, and landed.
on TILE.
I was wearing both my backpacks.
Thank goodness.
Well, I could've get up because my arms were bent back in a way (and if you've worn 2 you know how hard it is to get them off) that I couldn't move them.
My legs were already black and blue in spots.
BUT I didn't hit my head or snap anything. And I'm thankful as heck.
Thank goodness. My backpacks really saved me, in that, I know for a fact.
The couple I'd hung out with on and off for the day ran over and helped me up, Marie ran down as well.
Guess what I got to do right after this awesome acrobatic display?
Yup, you guessed it... get on a 8 hour bus trip!
Vang Vieng
Gorgeous was my first impression. Nam Song River set amongst beautiful limestone cliffs/hills! Way to westernized was my second.
Showered, lunched, internet time (to buy my ticket to London) and ready to explore.... we found a local cave. As I'd seen a few caves lately, I didn't pay to go in. After Marie came down (and assured me it was a waste of her money!) we went swimming with the locals. It was awesome. It was this cave under the hill thing? I dunno... we jumped in crystal clear water and just kept swimming deeper into the cave... but stopped when it got too dark. Again, I seemed to be a hit with the Laotians. There is this bar called Bucket Bar and if you go before a certain time you get a free BUCKET of alcohol. I went, didn't drink (thank goodness I can't have whiskey!) and left shortly after. My back was spasming REALLY bad and I again was in tears from it. And I hadn't been feeling the party thing lately as anything I can drink is 3 times the price of beer or the cheap whiskey. Oh, that night was an awesomely loud storm and about 230 in the morning (i was awake from the back pain) a huge BOOM echoed through the streets and the power went out.
Now I must explain a bit about vang vieng. Its a drunken fest for westerns. There is a river set amongst gorgeous hills where you tub. Well, some people tube. At the start of the river are a BUNCH of bars and each have either a zip line or roap swing. Think high up and awesome. Now, remember its dry season and the water is low. Combine that with way too much alcohol. Oh, and the entire town is full of these 'friends bars.' They have tables and pillows set out and Friends blaring. A couple play another show (think south park or simpsons) but 85% are Friends and all a different episode, season, etc. How pathetic... travel to Laos and spend days sitting around watching friends!
Ok, so my version. Marie and I went cheap and rented 1 tube to share. We stopped at a few of the bars. Played on some awesome rope swings and zip lines. I kept encouraging her to move on as I actually wanted to tube the river. Short version. It was a good compromise of swinging, zip lining and her hanging out and us tubing. Just incase you wondered, the water was a decent level from the few storms the nights before. However, tubing 2 to one tube was very hard! We sucked at it, actually. We had to push, crawl and climb our way at times (the water was really low at points). In the end we relaxed, joked about how inept at tubing we were and eventually had to get out and take a tuk tuk back to get the tube back so we didn't get a fine.
That night I met up with Micky that I met while volunteering in Cambodia. Must admit the dinner that night was enjoyed over a great episode of friends as we were a bit sore from the flying adventures. Again, everyone went to bucket bar and Miek and I enjoyed a great cup of tea then headed to our respective beds (at 1015!)
I woke up way too early the next morning because I was going to find a village to volunteer in for a few days. Turns out I decided I wanted to go north and do some trekking and see some hilltribes. Bought a bus ticket to Luang Prabang and was really excited
Showered, lunched, internet time (to buy my ticket to London) and ready to explore.... we found a local cave. As I'd seen a few caves lately, I didn't pay to go in. After Marie came down (and assured me it was a waste of her money!) we went swimming with the locals. It was awesome. It was this cave under the hill thing? I dunno... we jumped in crystal clear water and just kept swimming deeper into the cave... but stopped when it got too dark. Again, I seemed to be a hit with the Laotians. There is this bar called Bucket Bar and if you go before a certain time you get a free BUCKET of alcohol. I went, didn't drink (thank goodness I can't have whiskey!) and left shortly after. My back was spasming REALLY bad and I again was in tears from it. And I hadn't been feeling the party thing lately as anything I can drink is 3 times the price of beer or the cheap whiskey. Oh, that night was an awesomely loud storm and about 230 in the morning (i was awake from the back pain) a huge BOOM echoed through the streets and the power went out.
Now I must explain a bit about vang vieng. Its a drunken fest for westerns. There is a river set amongst gorgeous hills where you tub. Well, some people tube. At the start of the river are a BUNCH of bars and each have either a zip line or roap swing. Think high up and awesome. Now, remember its dry season and the water is low. Combine that with way too much alcohol. Oh, and the entire town is full of these 'friends bars.' They have tables and pillows set out and Friends blaring. A couple play another show (think south park or simpsons) but 85% are Friends and all a different episode, season, etc. How pathetic... travel to Laos and spend days sitting around watching friends!
Ok, so my version. Marie and I went cheap and rented 1 tube to share. We stopped at a few of the bars. Played on some awesome rope swings and zip lines. I kept encouraging her to move on as I actually wanted to tube the river. Short version. It was a good compromise of swinging, zip lining and her hanging out and us tubing. Just incase you wondered, the water was a decent level from the few storms the nights before. However, tubing 2 to one tube was very hard! We sucked at it, actually. We had to push, crawl and climb our way at times (the water was really low at points). In the end we relaxed, joked about how inept at tubing we were and eventually had to get out and take a tuk tuk back to get the tube back so we didn't get a fine.
That night I met up with Micky that I met while volunteering in Cambodia. Must admit the dinner that night was enjoyed over a great episode of friends as we were a bit sore from the flying adventures. Again, everyone went to bucket bar and Miek and I enjoyed a great cup of tea then headed to our respective beds (at 1015!)
I woke up way too early the next morning because I was going to find a village to volunteer in for a few days. Turns out I decided I wanted to go north and do some trekking and see some hilltribes. Bought a bus ticket to Luang Prabang and was really excited
The Sleeper Bus
North, north, must go NORTH!
The bus from Pakse to Vientiane is a night bus. One can choose the 'sitting' or 'sleeping' bus.
Well, after being told the bus offices didn't open til 8... and trying numerous times (at 6.. and finally convincing him to call 5 mins before 8)... Marie and I were told the bus was sold out. So we took a morning walk to the bus station. From there we thought we had only one option: the dreaded sitting bus. But, we could see the diagram and we were going to pick the best seats! Instead, we found another company that still had a bed... and spent 20000 extra kip (about $3) on the bed!! And then wasted the day in Pakse... cuz everything was still closed.
The sleeper bus! Turns out, you get to SHARE a bed thats about 2/3 the size of a twin! I had 9 and Marie had 8... we assumed they would've assigned us to the same bed. I got on and said "9" and this Laotian guy got really excited and said "you 9, I 10, you 9, I 10." He was excited that we were going to share a bed for the night. Instead I walked past him and told Marie, "whoever has the 7 to your 8 gets to be 9!" and promptly sat down with her on the bed. It turned out fine as they kept moving everyone around to be with the friends, etc.
So that night I must've had something that told guys to hit on me. While we were waiting for the bus this guy kept hitting on me. It was great and funny. He kept saying "you speak Laos, I no speak English." And then he'd attempt to teach us a few words in Laos. Because Brett and Marie were sharing a beer we HAD to cheers a gazillion times (that is a huge thing in Laos!) well, I wasn't drinking so he took my water and opened it and made me cheers too. And he kept refilling my cup if I drank it. I had to hide it because I didn't want to have to use the loo on the bus! He was trying to find it... it was great... and he was trying to get me to go home with him and hang out in Pakse for a few more days.. and not get on the bus! Then all 3 of the guys that worked on the bus kept giving me the same smile and look. Now Marie is a gorgeous, skinny Dutch girl...who should've gotten all the attention and normally did... but that night they all seemed to hit on me. It gave us a good giggle, guy after guy smiling.
Back to the night bus. Brett had given us a 'sleeping pill' and I decided I'd take it and pray it worked. Well, Marie who didn't take one slept like a baby for the whole 11 hours. I, on the other hand who took the pill, didn't sleep for more than 30 mins. I had decided to sleep 'head to toe' so we'd have more wiggle room (we had to have our daybags on our seats and so our feet had to be ontop of them) which was good. Except at one point Marie's feet were in my face... and I kept shoving them... but she didn't budge. I just turned over and tried to fall asleep. I kept setting my sleep timer on my ipod for 60 mins praying i'd be asleep... and getting sad each time I had to turn it back on! Well, I'd FINALLY fallen asleep about 445 when about 30 mins later I got my shoulder pounded on! The lovely, nice bus guys hadnded me both our wet wipes. How nice but seriously, you could've pounded on and woken up Marie who got to sleep for the last 45 mins until arrival!!!
Once in the Capital we took a tuk tuk across town to the Northern Bus terminal and caught a local bus to Vang Vieng. Luckily, I got a seat...Marie was stuck on a plastic stool (they line the middle of the bus between the rows with these). On this 5 hour bus ride, I had the BEST 10 min nap! Literally, it revived me for the day!
The bus from Pakse to Vientiane is a night bus. One can choose the 'sitting' or 'sleeping' bus.
Well, after being told the bus offices didn't open til 8... and trying numerous times (at 6.. and finally convincing him to call 5 mins before 8)... Marie and I were told the bus was sold out. So we took a morning walk to the bus station. From there we thought we had only one option: the dreaded sitting bus. But, we could see the diagram and we were going to pick the best seats! Instead, we found another company that still had a bed... and spent 20000 extra kip (about $3) on the bed!! And then wasted the day in Pakse... cuz everything was still closed.
The sleeper bus! Turns out, you get to SHARE a bed thats about 2/3 the size of a twin! I had 9 and Marie had 8... we assumed they would've assigned us to the same bed. I got on and said "9" and this Laotian guy got really excited and said "you 9, I 10, you 9, I 10." He was excited that we were going to share a bed for the night. Instead I walked past him and told Marie, "whoever has the 7 to your 8 gets to be 9!" and promptly sat down with her on the bed. It turned out fine as they kept moving everyone around to be with the friends, etc.
So that night I must've had something that told guys to hit on me. While we were waiting for the bus this guy kept hitting on me. It was great and funny. He kept saying "you speak Laos, I no speak English." And then he'd attempt to teach us a few words in Laos. Because Brett and Marie were sharing a beer we HAD to cheers a gazillion times (that is a huge thing in Laos!) well, I wasn't drinking so he took my water and opened it and made me cheers too. And he kept refilling my cup if I drank it. I had to hide it because I didn't want to have to use the loo on the bus! He was trying to find it... it was great... and he was trying to get me to go home with him and hang out in Pakse for a few more days.. and not get on the bus! Then all 3 of the guys that worked on the bus kept giving me the same smile and look. Now Marie is a gorgeous, skinny Dutch girl...who should've gotten all the attention and normally did... but that night they all seemed to hit on me. It gave us a good giggle, guy after guy smiling.
Back to the night bus. Brett had given us a 'sleeping pill' and I decided I'd take it and pray it worked. Well, Marie who didn't take one slept like a baby for the whole 11 hours. I, on the other hand who took the pill, didn't sleep for more than 30 mins. I had decided to sleep 'head to toe' so we'd have more wiggle room (we had to have our daybags on our seats and so our feet had to be ontop of them) which was good. Except at one point Marie's feet were in my face... and I kept shoving them... but she didn't budge. I just turned over and tried to fall asleep. I kept setting my sleep timer on my ipod for 60 mins praying i'd be asleep... and getting sad each time I had to turn it back on! Well, I'd FINALLY fallen asleep about 445 when about 30 mins later I got my shoulder pounded on! The lovely, nice bus guys hadnded me both our wet wipes. How nice but seriously, you could've pounded on and woken up Marie who got to sleep for the last 45 mins until arrival!!!
Once in the Capital we took a tuk tuk across town to the Northern Bus terminal and caught a local bus to Vang Vieng. Luckily, I got a seat...Marie was stuck on a plastic stool (they line the middle of the bus between the rows with these). On this 5 hour bus ride, I had the BEST 10 min nap! Literally, it revived me for the day!
Sabaidee Bi My (Happy New Year) on the Bolaven plateau
Wow! (Have I said that a lot. Seriously, wow, awesome, amazing!) 3 more wonderful days spent on a motorbike exploring the beautiful countryside and people of Laos. 6 of us: Myself, Rich, Brett, Karina, Damesh, and Marie were involved in this great adventure. The lovely Karina was my driver (who I must say did an awesome job putting up with my stress and also returning me in one piece having no major issues!)
I may have cheated and ridden on the back... but that doesn't matter! I've got a fear of motorcycles and had no desire to drive one, let alone for three days. And I almost even backed at last minute knowing it'd hurt my back. Well, I sucked it up and put on my smile and held my on TIGHT with my shaky hands.
To make this trip even better we did during Laos New Year. Now, to understand the level this took our trip to, one must understand a bit about the Laos, Cambodian and Thai new year. Its a huge water festival for 3 days. Everyone is throwing water, partying, drinking, listening to music, dumping more water on people, putting talc (baby powder) on people, more water, putting red lipstick on faces, more water and partying and dancing. Its amazing.
Our trip involved a waterfall the first day which made me think of Memorial Day or the 4th with families, and groups of friends all partying at the beach. Some were drinking (even used the old 'put the beer in the river to keep it cold' trick), some were hanging out with families and then there were the annoying (sorry to sound horrible... but had to have been Japanese) tourists who didn't care. We swam with the locals, looked around and got back on the bikes. This is where the fun began. In all the villages we road through children were standing on the sides of the roads throwing buckets of water on you, spraying you with hoses, throwing bags full of water, and even ice cubes.... anything to get you soaked!!! During this great time we came across many families, villages and groups partying: under houses, in gas stations, random spots on the sides of the road, and at markets. We would stop, get soaked, drink a bit of BeerLao (ok, not me as I can no longer drink beer), get powdered, dance and then get back on the bikes. This continued multiple times for the first two days. We partied with a copy, who MADE everyone drink beer and then waved as everyone drove off. We found a big carnival celebrating the new year. It had games, rides (ok, well, a merry-go-round swing that was man powered!), food stalls, and everything else you can imagine, including children betting games! That was serious business and went on all night. The next morning we swam in a huge waterfall, and took part in some sort of cleansing ritual??
Our adventures had us stopping at gas stations/'cafes' to avoid major downpours. We played the game where you put a name on foreheads and can only ask yes/no questions to figure out who you are. Stopping in random villages at the only food place using lonely planet to order noodle soup. Yes, the do think I'm weird when I ONLY want the noodles... no meat, no broth... that happened at least 3 times!
Everyone was in an amazingly happy, and most likely drunk, mood and celebrating. We all figured out that America and Australia play the same rules in checkers while the UK and the Netherlands have a completely different game (supposedly the same...) and that Portugal is mixed somewhere in the middle of both!
By the last day we were sick of getting wet. It had felt great during the heat but the last day was a bit cool. After day 1 my back was hurting (it hurt just from tuk tuk rides around to temples...) and day 2 was worse.... bring on the worst day. Ugh! Day 3 involved 80 kms of a DIRTY BUMPY road. But to make it worth it the first 40 were through beautiful jungle, where we saw more waterfalls. At the end I could barely move. Literally was in tears the last 10 kms... and was sooo glad we had to sit out a storm during lunch as I was laying down at the lunch table resting my back! We were red... well, brown from head to toe from the dirt.... add the water we got splashed and it made it worse. One more waterfall stop on the way home and then it was back to Pakse where everything was shut down!
Oh, the Bolaven Plateau is known to make some of the best coffee in the world. We saw soo many fields of coffee plants. I actually saw what they look like during the growing process... and tasted one... ick! We were pretty bummed because we couldn't stop at the coffee plantations as they were all closed for the New Year. But we did enjoy a few cups of great coffee along the way!
The shower at the end was probably the longest and most wonderful shower we'd all taken in ages! Oh, and that night we waited 2 hours for our dinner.... in typical laotian style... which deserves an entire blog on its own!
I may have cheated and ridden on the back... but that doesn't matter! I've got a fear of motorcycles and had no desire to drive one, let alone for three days. And I almost even backed at last minute knowing it'd hurt my back. Well, I sucked it up and put on my smile and held my on TIGHT with my shaky hands.
To make this trip even better we did during Laos New Year. Now, to understand the level this took our trip to, one must understand a bit about the Laos, Cambodian and Thai new year. Its a huge water festival for 3 days. Everyone is throwing water, partying, drinking, listening to music, dumping more water on people, putting talc (baby powder) on people, more water, putting red lipstick on faces, more water and partying and dancing. Its amazing.
Our trip involved a waterfall the first day which made me think of Memorial Day or the 4th with families, and groups of friends all partying at the beach. Some were drinking (even used the old 'put the beer in the river to keep it cold' trick), some were hanging out with families and then there were the annoying (sorry to sound horrible... but had to have been Japanese) tourists who didn't care. We swam with the locals, looked around and got back on the bikes. This is where the fun began. In all the villages we road through children were standing on the sides of the roads throwing buckets of water on you, spraying you with hoses, throwing bags full of water, and even ice cubes.... anything to get you soaked!!! During this great time we came across many families, villages and groups partying: under houses, in gas stations, random spots on the sides of the road, and at markets. We would stop, get soaked, drink a bit of BeerLao (ok, not me as I can no longer drink beer), get powdered, dance and then get back on the bikes. This continued multiple times for the first two days. We partied with a copy, who MADE everyone drink beer and then waved as everyone drove off. We found a big carnival celebrating the new year. It had games, rides (ok, well, a merry-go-round swing that was man powered!), food stalls, and everything else you can imagine, including children betting games! That was serious business and went on all night. The next morning we swam in a huge waterfall, and took part in some sort of cleansing ritual??
Our adventures had us stopping at gas stations/'cafes' to avoid major downpours. We played the game where you put a name on foreheads and can only ask yes/no questions to figure out who you are. Stopping in random villages at the only food place using lonely planet to order noodle soup. Yes, the do think I'm weird when I ONLY want the noodles... no meat, no broth... that happened at least 3 times!
Everyone was in an amazingly happy, and most likely drunk, mood and celebrating. We all figured out that America and Australia play the same rules in checkers while the UK and the Netherlands have a completely different game (supposedly the same...) and that Portugal is mixed somewhere in the middle of both!
By the last day we were sick of getting wet. It had felt great during the heat but the last day was a bit cool. After day 1 my back was hurting (it hurt just from tuk tuk rides around to temples...) and day 2 was worse.... bring on the worst day. Ugh! Day 3 involved 80 kms of a DIRTY BUMPY road. But to make it worth it the first 40 were through beautiful jungle, where we saw more waterfalls. At the end I could barely move. Literally was in tears the last 10 kms... and was sooo glad we had to sit out a storm during lunch as I was laying down at the lunch table resting my back! We were red... well, brown from head to toe from the dirt.... add the water we got splashed and it made it worse. One more waterfall stop on the way home and then it was back to Pakse where everything was shut down!
Oh, the Bolaven Plateau is known to make some of the best coffee in the world. We saw soo many fields of coffee plants. I actually saw what they look like during the growing process... and tasted one... ick! We were pretty bummed because we couldn't stop at the coffee plantations as they were all closed for the New Year. But we did enjoy a few cups of great coffee along the way!
The shower at the end was probably the longest and most wonderful shower we'd all taken in ages! Oh, and that night we waited 2 hours for our dinner.... in typical laotian style... which deserves an entire blog on its own!
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Bus ride from Hell
OH MY GOD.
All I can say about the bus ride from Kratie to Don Det was MISERABLE.
For a 4 hour journey it was literally one of the worst experiences of my travels. Not sure why it bothered me so much... but freakin heck, it did!
First I was in the back corner of a completely full bus! Not good when I get sick! So I moved forward. Great! Then the guy next to me keeps falling asleep and being in my space. I'm already clausterphobic sitting next to the window! Oh, then the guy in front of me decides to put his seat back. Awesome, his seat goes soooo far back its way more than a normal seat! Perfect now I'm a sardine. Did I mention the AC wasn't working and I was sitting on the side with the sun burning through the curtain. I was covered in sweat and dripping bullets! Then the smell set in. The toilet had a leak and someone had taken a huge dump. I was sitting right above the toilet and next to the stairs so I surely had the best 'smell vantage point.' It smelt like piss/poo the rest of the way. Then it was time to cross the border into Laos. Well, at least that was smooth. It took awhile, as expected because everyone waits for the last person! Fine, at least I got to get out of the bus! It was also the first time I've walked across a border as I've always flown or in europe been on trains. That was 'exciting.' Back into the hot stink box I got for the bit to drop off point. The three of us added a bunch of others getting off to go to Don Det. We took a mini bus to the boat... where I experienced the Laosness for the first time. They are in no rush... more on this to come later! Eventually we set off to get to the island. Where we found bungalows and had a chill night! But anything would've been better than that bus ride.
Its crazy when something as simple as being smashed into a bus can be so stressful for me... I was serioulsy close to hyperventilating at times! It was insane. I've been smashed, squeezed and squished on buses/trains/boats,etc before but nothing was as miserable as that experience!
All I can say about the bus ride from Kratie to Don Det was MISERABLE.
For a 4 hour journey it was literally one of the worst experiences of my travels. Not sure why it bothered me so much... but freakin heck, it did!
First I was in the back corner of a completely full bus! Not good when I get sick! So I moved forward. Great! Then the guy next to me keeps falling asleep and being in my space. I'm already clausterphobic sitting next to the window! Oh, then the guy in front of me decides to put his seat back. Awesome, his seat goes soooo far back its way more than a normal seat! Perfect now I'm a sardine. Did I mention the AC wasn't working and I was sitting on the side with the sun burning through the curtain. I was covered in sweat and dripping bullets! Then the smell set in. The toilet had a leak and someone had taken a huge dump. I was sitting right above the toilet and next to the stairs so I surely had the best 'smell vantage point.' It smelt like piss/poo the rest of the way. Then it was time to cross the border into Laos. Well, at least that was smooth. It took awhile, as expected because everyone waits for the last person! Fine, at least I got to get out of the bus! It was also the first time I've walked across a border as I've always flown or in europe been on trains. That was 'exciting.' Back into the hot stink box I got for the bit to drop off point. The three of us added a bunch of others getting off to go to Don Det. We took a mini bus to the boat... where I experienced the Laosness for the first time. They are in no rush... more on this to come later! Eventually we set off to get to the island. Where we found bungalows and had a chill night! But anything would've been better than that bus ride.
Its crazy when something as simple as being smashed into a bus can be so stressful for me... I was serioulsy close to hyperventilating at times! It was insane. I've been smashed, squeezed and squished on buses/trains/boats,etc before but nothing was as miserable as that experience!
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