It may seem so silly to most... but SIX MONTHS is a huge celebration for me! To go from multiple debilitating migraines a week to HALF A YEAR with none is incredible!
I'm amazed at how simple it is!! No gluten/dairy = no migraine! Well, count me in!
I know I keep blogging about it but some of you may or may not remember how bad they were. I couldn't keep a regular job, attend classes, or be reliable in any way because of the stupid migraines that ruled my life. Its now amazing to know when I make plans I won't have to cancel them half the time!
Ahh! I'm having a little party for myself!
Happy 1/2 year migraine free birthday to me!!
:-D
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Western Day
Tuesday 23 March
I slept in today after spending so many hours yesterday running around looking at places. It sounds really strange, but I’m REALLY overwhelmed in my decision. Its not that hard, right? Especially when so many places need help! Well, in reality one has to take into account so many little things… that I never realized!
Well, after enjoying my lie in, having moved to a much quieter dorm part that allowed me some sleep, I found an indoors coffee shop with wifi. My $1 coffee bought me 2 hours on the internet and I could’ve stayed for longer but had to go and meet some people. I met with some young guys (maybe 18-25… its so hard to tell here!) that organize a village homestay. It sounds pretty cool but really seems like a way for them to get a bit of money, donations, and just outside influx. Great and totally needed but I think I want something a bit more structured where I know what I can give, besides an obvious financial donation, is making a difference. I did think that going out during the Khmer new year and spending it in the Countryside in a village would be awesome though and told them I’d be in contact.
I had a meeting at 4 to meet with someone from a flyer I’d seen around town. He was late but eventually got here. Hey, he did ride an hour just to talk to me for a few minutes!! His English isn’t so great but what he offers sounds amazing. He’s a director of a school about 30 kms outside the city. (The other one I liked was about 14 kms… that I’d have to bike to every day!)) I could live at the school and only pay $4 a day for food and a place to sleep. (Which in itself is probably raising them money.) Not exactly sure if its my own room or if I am sharing with the other volunteer there...but that’s not important. It sounds like classes are 7-9, 11-12, 1-3, 5-7… not sure if its split up for ages or what. But I’ll be teaching English, hanging out with the kids (aged 5 to adults) and just chilling. The school is run on a generator so it sounds exactly like what I wanted….a chance to really experience the Khmer culture and way of life. (from what he said other volunteers have stayed for 1 week to 8 months.) I believe school is 6 days a week and that I’ll be able to get a ride into town on Sundays.
Sooo…after starting to feel like maybe I was being too picky…I’m jumping in! I am being picked up at 10 on Thursday and will probably start teaching as soon as I get there (strange, eh!). I’m going to buy a weeks worth a breakfast foods to take, a book or two and dive in to unknown! (I’m thinking I’ll buy one big book as well. Then, if I need more I can get more when I’m in town on Sunday not having to take my big bag on the back of a moto!) I’m excited!!!
Oh, I named this blog ‘Western Day’ because I’m eating out every meal today. I had a coffee ($1), 2 eggs for lunch (.50), chips and salsa (1.50), a tostada (2), and a drink (2)… all in the effort to get free internet. I don’t feel guilty as I’ve had a bowl of white rice for dinner three nights running (.50)! I know its living ‘lavishly’ but I figure its allowed every now and then!!
Tomorrow I’m setting out to get my shorts taken in. I bought them in Nov/Dec and they will barely stay up now.. and I mean even with my belt in the smallest hole I can almost pull them down!! Its exciting to know I’ve lost so much weight but annoying cuz I should’ve bought new shorts before leaving Aus but I’d read you could get stuff dirt cheap here. Well, you can if you’re a man or a female that wants gypsy/hobo style clothes. That style doesn’t suit my personality, style or turn out the least bit flattering on me! Even though I’m not a fan.. I think I’ll cave and buy some. I know I’m going to buy a couple shirts as mine are again too big and I need something to cover my shoulders. Really, I could just use a trip to Gap for some of my tanktops, and old navy for a pair or shorts, and then to top it off REI for a pair of travel pant (with the zip off shorts)! I suppose I’ll make do without though!
Well, I wrote this blog during dinner. Not sure WHAT they used in their Mexican food… but it had gluten in it! Its killing me and straight away I can notice it turning my stomach and making me bloated and will probably go straight through me. Oh, I love this gluten intolerance. Every now and then I can tell I get traces of it... and I can tell within minutes, usually! Yay for living healthy!!
Oh, I realize my blog doens't match. Its been 2 years since i played with the backgrounds... and now I can't remember how! oops! I'll figure it out tomorrow! I'm over it today!
I slept in today after spending so many hours yesterday running around looking at places. It sounds really strange, but I’m REALLY overwhelmed in my decision. Its not that hard, right? Especially when so many places need help! Well, in reality one has to take into account so many little things… that I never realized!
Well, after enjoying my lie in, having moved to a much quieter dorm part that allowed me some sleep, I found an indoors coffee shop with wifi. My $1 coffee bought me 2 hours on the internet and I could’ve stayed for longer but had to go and meet some people. I met with some young guys (maybe 18-25… its so hard to tell here!) that organize a village homestay. It sounds pretty cool but really seems like a way for them to get a bit of money, donations, and just outside influx. Great and totally needed but I think I want something a bit more structured where I know what I can give, besides an obvious financial donation, is making a difference. I did think that going out during the Khmer new year and spending it in the Countryside in a village would be awesome though and told them I’d be in contact.
I had a meeting at 4 to meet with someone from a flyer I’d seen around town. He was late but eventually got here. Hey, he did ride an hour just to talk to me for a few minutes!! His English isn’t so great but what he offers sounds amazing. He’s a director of a school about 30 kms outside the city. (The other one I liked was about 14 kms… that I’d have to bike to every day!)) I could live at the school and only pay $4 a day for food and a place to sleep. (Which in itself is probably raising them money.) Not exactly sure if its my own room or if I am sharing with the other volunteer there...but that’s not important. It sounds like classes are 7-9, 11-12, 1-3, 5-7… not sure if its split up for ages or what. But I’ll be teaching English, hanging out with the kids (aged 5 to adults) and just chilling. The school is run on a generator so it sounds exactly like what I wanted….a chance to really experience the Khmer culture and way of life. (from what he said other volunteers have stayed for 1 week to 8 months.) I believe school is 6 days a week and that I’ll be able to get a ride into town on Sundays.
Sooo…after starting to feel like maybe I was being too picky…I’m jumping in! I am being picked up at 10 on Thursday and will probably start teaching as soon as I get there (strange, eh!). I’m going to buy a weeks worth a breakfast foods to take, a book or two and dive in to unknown! (I’m thinking I’ll buy one big book as well. Then, if I need more I can get more when I’m in town on Sunday not having to take my big bag on the back of a moto!) I’m excited!!!
Oh, I named this blog ‘Western Day’ because I’m eating out every meal today. I had a coffee ($1), 2 eggs for lunch (.50), chips and salsa (1.50), a tostada (2), and a drink (2)… all in the effort to get free internet. I don’t feel guilty as I’ve had a bowl of white rice for dinner three nights running (.50)! I know its living ‘lavishly’ but I figure its allowed every now and then!!
Tomorrow I’m setting out to get my shorts taken in. I bought them in Nov/Dec and they will barely stay up now.. and I mean even with my belt in the smallest hole I can almost pull them down!! Its exciting to know I’ve lost so much weight but annoying cuz I should’ve bought new shorts before leaving Aus but I’d read you could get stuff dirt cheap here. Well, you can if you’re a man or a female that wants gypsy/hobo style clothes. That style doesn’t suit my personality, style or turn out the least bit flattering on me! Even though I’m not a fan.. I think I’ll cave and buy some. I know I’m going to buy a couple shirts as mine are again too big and I need something to cover my shoulders. Really, I could just use a trip to Gap for some of my tanktops, and old navy for a pair or shorts, and then to top it off REI for a pair of travel pant (with the zip off shorts)! I suppose I’ll make do without though!
Well, I wrote this blog during dinner. Not sure WHAT they used in their Mexican food… but it had gluten in it! Its killing me and straight away I can notice it turning my stomach and making me bloated and will probably go straight through me. Oh, I love this gluten intolerance. Every now and then I can tell I get traces of it... and I can tell within minutes, usually! Yay for living healthy!!
Oh, I realize my blog doens't match. Its been 2 years since i played with the backgrounds... and now I can't remember how! oops! I'll figure it out tomorrow! I'm over it today!
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
On to Siem Reap
Sunday 21 March
I woke up feeling like a completely different person! Good thing, after wasting an entire day! I spent the morning figuring out what to do… which I seem to do a lot of these days! I decided to head to Siem Reap and see what I could figure out up there! I wandered through markets, paid my hostel bill and got a ride to the bus.
The bus was interesting… but not the craziest I’ve been on by any means! It was very modern, AC, tv, etc. It was more that it stopped at the bus depot for 30 mins and not even the locals could figure out why. The Cambodian soap was quite interesting… so much it put me to sleep in 10 mins! We road through countryside for 6-7 hours and saw: lots of Oxen pulling carts, rice paddies, villages, local stalls, and vendors. I’ve always enjoyed riding buses around countries as you really get to see what a country is like. Too bad I didn’t get to stop and play with any of the kids playing volleyball, or stay in a village. Now that would’ve been awesome!
I got to Siem reap and decided to go the cheap route and stay in a dorm for $1! Now, the average cheap room here is $4-5 and that includes a fan, and a bathroom with cold water (which is not up to any western standards). Now this ‘dorm’ was something else! I wasn’t tired at all after sleeping for so much the day before but I wasn’t in the mood to be social! I got in bed and decided to read. Now my ‘bed’ was located in a walkway to the back of the property in this guesthouse. Each side has mattresses with mosquito nets. Now as I was lying under my net, sweating buckets, going insane from the blaring rooftop bar music (that was directly above my bed) and being bitten to death I wondered if it was worth being cheap! I toughed it out… and only woke up every 15 mines or so to chase down something that was biting me! And I saved 4 on the room for the night! That’s one drawback about traveling alone, rooms are cheaper as its not split between 2!
Monday 22 March
As normal, I started my day online. I seem to spend parts of every day looking up schools/orphanages, texting and calling people. I made three appointments and called my tuk tuk driver from the night before. I like to make a connection with one driver and have them be my guide, per say, for a town. It supports them, and usually they’ll show you around and take you out with their friends on a night or two to see where the locals are. Well, Ree showed up with a moto! Ahhh!! I was scared!! I knew we had to go into the countryside and of course, a moto is easier, faster and cheaper to get around!! I held on for dear life and we were off!!
I checked out three different places. I’m REALLY struggling in deciding where to volunteer. I’ve got 2 (or 3) main problems. The first being that most of the places are outside the city. The problem comes to getting there everyday. Do I pay for a driver to take me, pedal a bicycle for 1-2 hours in 35 degree heat each way? The cost of being dropped off would be more than I’m paying for accommodation or food everyday. I feel like money shouldn’t be a problem while volunteering, but obviously, I’m on a limited budget and want to give my time. The second problem comes in that most of the schools will close next week for 2-3 weeks for Khmer New Year. While being here during that time will be awesome, its going to take away my time from volunteering. I find it a bit odd to start somewhere and know I won’t be able to give that much of my time once they start back up again. I started observing at a language school last and will start teaching on Wed. I feel a bit odd about this as the classes are at the end of the term and the teachers are finishing up lessons/units to get ready for the final next week. I’ve no experience in teaching English… but I speak it.. and much better than many of the Khmer teachers. So it’s a catch 22, let me help co teach for 2 weeks to get to know a class I’ll teach next term or just wait?
I haven't really explored the ciry much. I did walk through the night markets and around the old market, where I'm staying. This city seems to be the tourist capital of Cambodia.... which makes sense seeing that it caters to those visiting Angkor Wat. I haven't even thought about visiting there yet though!
I haven't taken any pictures in a few days... and still haven't figured out how to get pics from my picasa albums to this blog. So sorry, I'm just full of words! But whats new, right!!!
I woke up feeling like a completely different person! Good thing, after wasting an entire day! I spent the morning figuring out what to do… which I seem to do a lot of these days! I decided to head to Siem Reap and see what I could figure out up there! I wandered through markets, paid my hostel bill and got a ride to the bus.
The bus was interesting… but not the craziest I’ve been on by any means! It was very modern, AC, tv, etc. It was more that it stopped at the bus depot for 30 mins and not even the locals could figure out why. The Cambodian soap was quite interesting… so much it put me to sleep in 10 mins! We road through countryside for 6-7 hours and saw: lots of Oxen pulling carts, rice paddies, villages, local stalls, and vendors. I’ve always enjoyed riding buses around countries as you really get to see what a country is like. Too bad I didn’t get to stop and play with any of the kids playing volleyball, or stay in a village. Now that would’ve been awesome!
I got to Siem reap and decided to go the cheap route and stay in a dorm for $1! Now, the average cheap room here is $4-5 and that includes a fan, and a bathroom with cold water (which is not up to any western standards). Now this ‘dorm’ was something else! I wasn’t tired at all after sleeping for so much the day before but I wasn’t in the mood to be social! I got in bed and decided to read. Now my ‘bed’ was located in a walkway to the back of the property in this guesthouse. Each side has mattresses with mosquito nets. Now as I was lying under my net, sweating buckets, going insane from the blaring rooftop bar music (that was directly above my bed) and being bitten to death I wondered if it was worth being cheap! I toughed it out… and only woke up every 15 mines or so to chase down something that was biting me! And I saved 4 on the room for the night! That’s one drawback about traveling alone, rooms are cheaper as its not split between 2!
Monday 22 March
As normal, I started my day online. I seem to spend parts of every day looking up schools/orphanages, texting and calling people. I made three appointments and called my tuk tuk driver from the night before. I like to make a connection with one driver and have them be my guide, per say, for a town. It supports them, and usually they’ll show you around and take you out with their friends on a night or two to see where the locals are. Well, Ree showed up with a moto! Ahhh!! I was scared!! I knew we had to go into the countryside and of course, a moto is easier, faster and cheaper to get around!! I held on for dear life and we were off!!
I checked out three different places. I’m REALLY struggling in deciding where to volunteer. I’ve got 2 (or 3) main problems. The first being that most of the places are outside the city. The problem comes to getting there everyday. Do I pay for a driver to take me, pedal a bicycle for 1-2 hours in 35 degree heat each way? The cost of being dropped off would be more than I’m paying for accommodation or food everyday. I feel like money shouldn’t be a problem while volunteering, but obviously, I’m on a limited budget and want to give my time. The second problem comes in that most of the schools will close next week for 2-3 weeks for Khmer New Year. While being here during that time will be awesome, its going to take away my time from volunteering. I find it a bit odd to start somewhere and know I won’t be able to give that much of my time once they start back up again. I started observing at a language school last and will start teaching on Wed. I feel a bit odd about this as the classes are at the end of the term and the teachers are finishing up lessons/units to get ready for the final next week. I’ve no experience in teaching English… but I speak it.. and much better than many of the Khmer teachers. So it’s a catch 22, let me help co teach for 2 weeks to get to know a class I’ll teach next term or just wait?
I haven't really explored the ciry much. I did walk through the night markets and around the old market, where I'm staying. This city seems to be the tourist capital of Cambodia.... which makes sense seeing that it caters to those visiting Angkor Wat. I haven't even thought about visiting there yet though!
I haven't taken any pictures in a few days... and still haven't figured out how to get pics from my picasa albums to this blog. So sorry, I'm just full of words! But whats new, right!!!
hot = ill
Friday 19 March.
Oh what a hot day! Rich and I had another full day of walking around and sightseeing in the city. We started off at the Royal Palace… which was not worth the steep $6.25 admission price. We walked through the Silver Pagoda, which is supposedly the best bit along with the throne room, and were so not amazed we decided to sit down and pull out our handy companion the Lonely Planet so it could tell us about it. We walked through again and at least knew which Buddha had thousands of gems and that the bed in the back was used on a coronation day. While attempting to take it in and appreciate it we got kicked out! I guess the lovely place is closed from 11-2. Ugh, seriously who is closed for more of the day then open! We wandered around and saw:: the Independence Monument (which you can’t get close to as its in the middle of a round-a-bout), Wat Ounalom (but not Buddha’s eyebrow hair which my books says they worship), St 178 (the art and craft boutique area), and more. We did not find: the Kiwi bakery that we spent ages looking for so Rich could enjoy a meat pie. But I did find another supermarket… that had gluten free muesli bars for me and Vegemite for Rich. I smiled and relaxed at my favourite coffee corner but didn’t enoy the coffee I had later… it gets to thumbs down.
Then we met up with Casey and Kate in Lakeside and while they enjoyed a more ‘expensive dinner’ (at $3/4) I went around the corner and had a $2 curry that was huge and came with a mango drink (which was remade for me with no yogurt!) Then we zipped off to an awesome drum show which we thought was going to be a puppet show! Oops, either way, money well spent… unlike the stupid palace. Then back to the Flying Elephant to enjoy the night. We went out to the Pontoon and enjoyed a bit of dancing before coming home and crashing.
Saturday 20 March.
I woke up feeling MISERABLE today. No, not a hangover as I was the only one NOT drinking last night. I think I didn’t drink enough fluids combined with my anti malaria pills which make me sensitive to the sun. Together it made me ill all day. I couldn’t keep food down and apple juice is about all that makes me happy. So basically I’m wasted away the entire day trying get hydrated enough… which would be much easier with something like Gatorade and attempting to keep something down.
Oh what a hot day! Rich and I had another full day of walking around and sightseeing in the city. We started off at the Royal Palace… which was not worth the steep $6.25 admission price. We walked through the Silver Pagoda, which is supposedly the best bit along with the throne room, and were so not amazed we decided to sit down and pull out our handy companion the Lonely Planet so it could tell us about it. We walked through again and at least knew which Buddha had thousands of gems and that the bed in the back was used on a coronation day. While attempting to take it in and appreciate it we got kicked out! I guess the lovely place is closed from 11-2. Ugh, seriously who is closed for more of the day then open! We wandered around and saw:: the Independence Monument (which you can’t get close to as its in the middle of a round-a-bout), Wat Ounalom (but not Buddha’s eyebrow hair which my books says they worship), St 178 (the art and craft boutique area), and more. We did not find: the Kiwi bakery that we spent ages looking for so Rich could enjoy a meat pie. But I did find another supermarket… that had gluten free muesli bars for me and Vegemite for Rich. I smiled and relaxed at my favourite coffee corner but didn’t enoy the coffee I had later… it gets to thumbs down.
Then we met up with Casey and Kate in Lakeside and while they enjoyed a more ‘expensive dinner’ (at $3/4) I went around the corner and had a $2 curry that was huge and came with a mango drink (which was remade for me with no yogurt!) Then we zipped off to an awesome drum show which we thought was going to be a puppet show! Oops, either way, money well spent… unlike the stupid palace. Then back to the Flying Elephant to enjoy the night. We went out to the Pontoon and enjoyed a bit of dancing before coming home and crashing.
Saturday 20 March.
I woke up feeling MISERABLE today. No, not a hangover as I was the only one NOT drinking last night. I think I didn’t drink enough fluids combined with my anti malaria pills which make me sensitive to the sun. Together it made me ill all day. I couldn’t keep food down and apple juice is about all that makes me happy. So basically I’m wasted away the entire day trying get hydrated enough… which would be much easier with something like Gatorade and attempting to keep something down.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Monkey in the middle... of a city!?!
Monkeys in the middle of the city
Wednesday, 17 March. While sitting in the internet cafe posting the blogs and pictures I met a Canadian girl, Casey. I ended up walking with her along the riverfront for while she told me about her time in Cambodia. We went to her favorite coffee place and enjoyed an ice coffee for 1500 r (less than .50). She told me about the orphanage she’s volunteered at for the last few weeks and how she helped them raise money. I then got to me a couple of the kids from the orphanage and decided if I stay in Siem Reap I’d maybe volunteer with them. The only down side is most of the volunteering is trying to raise money for them as they are so desperately in need. Obviously that’s not bad it just seems that they get turned down more often than not. I spent the rest of the day meandering down streets, through markets, stalls, etc and just people watching. I’m just enjoying taking it all in. Don’t think I’ll get sick of it! Later that night I was attempting to walk to Lakeside when I tripped (surprise surprise) and stubbed my toe. Now I thought I’d just broken my nail until I felt my sandal filling with liquid! Next stop was a street pharmacy where I bought alcohol to clean it, iodine and some bandages! Pictures below!! Next I met up with Thomas, a local Couchsurfer at Frog and Shamrocks to enjoy the festive St Pats day. We enjoyed a jug of margaritas, hey, it was greenish and I can’t drink beer! Then we went to Rory’s Irish pub where I met up with the two girls that volunteer at Sunshine Orphanage.
Thursday, 18 March. What a day! A guy from the hostel and I made quite the circle of Phnom Penh today! It was a little climb to the top of a hill…and on the way I noticed monkeys! Yes, monkeys chilling in the park in the middle of the city! On the way down the hill I noticed an elephant. The locals have made an elephant ride for the tourists. I was impressed with his shoes, as they were a bit more stylish than mine! We then walked to the Central Market….where we had to walk through the construction site to make it through the other side. (Who ever said anything about hardhat only sites!) Next, the Royal Palace, which was closed for a 2 hour lunch break so we headed back to the awesome sidewalk coffee spot again for a sit down refresher!! Then we headed across the street to the National Museum which was impressive but a bit of a let down at the same time. We went back to the royal palace only to decide to go tomorrow morning. The ‘Russian markets’ were a bit too far to walk so we hopped into a tuk tuk which is becoming a bit less scary! Here one can find name brand clothes (banana republic, American eagle, etc) for a fraction of the price back home… look at your labels…many of your clothes are made in Cambodia! Next we ‘tuk tuked’ to lakeside and wandered around. Debated changing to a cheaper guesthouse but decided against it as you’re a bit separated from the city and all its marvels and more secluded in a type of backpacker utopia. Now I’m blogging and deciding which $2 curry I’ll have for dinner. I think I’ll splurge tonight, I’ve had 25 cent bowls of white rice the last two days!!
**FOOD*** In the past, I've often found traveling as a vegetarian to be extremely difficult. When no one speaks the same language its often hard to figure out which dishes contain meat and which don’t. Well, now imagine 6 months ago finding out that dairy and gluten cause your body to run havoc on itself. It was hard enough being in Australia and I knew travel, as a gluten free vegan would be a challenge, to say the least. My experiences so far have been interesting. I have a feeling I’ll be eating A LOT of plain rice and rice noodles. I found a western style supermarket today. The only useful thing that had was wheat free muesli (I’m hoping its also gluten free, I can’t find any in the ingredients!) other than that I bought some dry fruit to have as snacks. I wish eating was easier, I wish I didn’t have to be so careful and anal about everything… but its so worth it to feel like a human. It’s amazing how a bit of gluten makes me feel and the migraine I get from dairy. I also forgot how hard it is to get proper fruit and veg when not able to cook, as well!! Fruit I can buy from the market but vegetables need to be cooked. Ah, I love my difficulties!! While it may be impossible to be completely free of gluten/dairy while traveling I’m still giving it my best go!
(ok, i'm back on my computer... and having issues with the pictures...ugh, I will get the hang of this!!! I've loaded them onto my picasa and now can't get them on here!)
Wednesday, 17 March. While sitting in the internet cafe posting the blogs and pictures I met a Canadian girl, Casey. I ended up walking with her along the riverfront for while she told me about her time in Cambodia. We went to her favorite coffee place and enjoyed an ice coffee for 1500 r (less than .50). She told me about the orphanage she’s volunteered at for the last few weeks and how she helped them raise money. I then got to me a couple of the kids from the orphanage and decided if I stay in Siem Reap I’d maybe volunteer with them. The only down side is most of the volunteering is trying to raise money for them as they are so desperately in need. Obviously that’s not bad it just seems that they get turned down more often than not. I spent the rest of the day meandering down streets, through markets, stalls, etc and just people watching. I’m just enjoying taking it all in. Don’t think I’ll get sick of it! Later that night I was attempting to walk to Lakeside when I tripped (surprise surprise) and stubbed my toe. Now I thought I’d just broken my nail until I felt my sandal filling with liquid! Next stop was a street pharmacy where I bought alcohol to clean it, iodine and some bandages! Pictures below!! Next I met up with Thomas, a local Couchsurfer at Frog and Shamrocks to enjoy the festive St Pats day. We enjoyed a jug of margaritas, hey, it was greenish and I can’t drink beer! Then we went to Rory’s Irish pub where I met up with the two girls that volunteer at Sunshine Orphanage.
Thursday, 18 March. What a day! A guy from the hostel and I made quite the circle of Phnom Penh today! It was a little climb to the top of a hill…and on the way I noticed monkeys! Yes, monkeys chilling in the park in the middle of the city! On the way down the hill I noticed an elephant. The locals have made an elephant ride for the tourists. I was impressed with his shoes, as they were a bit more stylish than mine! We then walked to the Central Market….where we had to walk through the construction site to make it through the other side. (Who ever said anything about hardhat only sites!) Next, the Royal Palace, which was closed for a 2 hour lunch break so we headed back to the awesome sidewalk coffee spot again for a sit down refresher!! Then we headed across the street to the National Museum which was impressive but a bit of a let down at the same time. We went back to the royal palace only to decide to go tomorrow morning. The ‘Russian markets’ were a bit too far to walk so we hopped into a tuk tuk which is becoming a bit less scary! Here one can find name brand clothes (banana republic, American eagle, etc) for a fraction of the price back home… look at your labels…many of your clothes are made in Cambodia! Next we ‘tuk tuked’ to lakeside and wandered around. Debated changing to a cheaper guesthouse but decided against it as you’re a bit separated from the city and all its marvels and more secluded in a type of backpacker utopia. Now I’m blogging and deciding which $2 curry I’ll have for dinner. I think I’ll splurge tonight, I’ve had 25 cent bowls of white rice the last two days!!
**FOOD*** In the past, I've often found traveling as a vegetarian to be extremely difficult. When no one speaks the same language its often hard to figure out which dishes contain meat and which don’t. Well, now imagine 6 months ago finding out that dairy and gluten cause your body to run havoc on itself. It was hard enough being in Australia and I knew travel, as a gluten free vegan would be a challenge, to say the least. My experiences so far have been interesting. I have a feeling I’ll be eating A LOT of plain rice and rice noodles. I found a western style supermarket today. The only useful thing that had was wheat free muesli (I’m hoping its also gluten free, I can’t find any in the ingredients!) other than that I bought some dry fruit to have as snacks. I wish eating was easier, I wish I didn’t have to be so careful and anal about everything… but its so worth it to feel like a human. It’s amazing how a bit of gluten makes me feel and the migraine I get from dairy. I also forgot how hard it is to get proper fruit and veg when not able to cook, as well!! Fruit I can buy from the market but vegetables need to be cooked. Ah, I love my difficulties!! While it may be impossible to be completely free of gluten/dairy while traveling I’m still giving it my best go!
(ok, i'm back on my computer... and having issues with the pictures...ugh, I will get the hang of this!!! I've loaded them onto my picasa and now can't get them on here!)
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Excited, overwhelmed, thrilled, nervous, exhilarating, and shocking….
Are the words I would use to describe my first day in Cambodia. Now this is Southeast Asia!
Goodness me, I knew what I was getting myself into but it doesn’t make it any less shocking to the system! The first thing I had to do was bargain to get a cheap ‘tuk tuk’ ride from the airport to the hostel. Now for those that don’t know, all drivers have deals with certain guesthouses and try thus try to sell you on the ‘best one.’ I was having none of it. I knew the name of 2 hostels and was keen to see if I could find some backpackers and didn’t want a guesthouse!
Getting to the hostel is a completely different story. Everyone has seen the crazy driving in movies and on tv. But let me tell you… when you have bikes, motos, tuk tuks (I don’t even know if they’re called that here), cyclos, cars, big trucks all vying for the same 1 or 2 lanes it’s a BIT insane! Lanes are not important, horns are. Beep if someone is going to slow or blocking your bit. It’s a case of the bravest and biggest win. To add to the craziness most intersections are a game of chicken. There are some more major intersections with lights (that are mostly followed) that have awesome symbols and count down the time til green/red, respectively. Now I arrived to the capital of Cambodia so that means CITY. If you recall, they aren’t my favorite thing! SMOG, dust and everything was insane! Many drivers of the aforementioned vehicles wear face masks, and I reckon it’s a good idea I start back on my allergy meds!! I had a huge smile on my face the whole ride to the hostel! What and adventure!
After setting my two feet back on solid ground (seriously, I was scared at the start of the ride!) I realized any adventure would have to wait until after a nap! A couple hours later I was refreshed, showered and ready to go with the two girls from my hostel on that adventure! What better way to start my time in Cambodia than visiting the killing fields. We hopped back in a tuk tuk for a 15 km ride South of Phnom Penh which allowed us to see industrial bits, some villages, and day to day life (well, as well as going by it allows).
I’ll be the first to admit, I’m a big history buff, but not very up to date about anything in Southeast Asia. I know tid bits of info and stuff I’ve learned/heard over the years but that’s about it. The Choeung Ek Killing fields were used to mass slaughter prisoners in the late 1970s. Children were thrashed against trees and decapitated, men and women were often beaten to save bullets. They got off trucks, blindfolded, silent and often killed right away. Children and women, famous singers/actors/models, or being a foreigner (I believe 9 Australians) would not spare one the cruelty. Walking around the killing fields clothes and bone fragments are still visible in the dirt. A 17 story (I’m drawing a blank on the Buddhist monument name) was built to honour all those who lost their lives. Many of the mass graves were unearthed and the bones are separated by type (female/male/age) of skulls on level 2-10, clothes on 1, and the rest of the bones on 11-17. It was humbling to walk around and be face to face, literally, or so many innocent victims that didn’t have a chance. To realize this was happening the year my brother was born was a bit terrifying. (While not exactly within my lifetime, its only 3 years before I was born.) The only other time I’ve been as humbled was walking through Auschwitz. It really makes me wonder about humans and who we are or claim to be.
We then went to the Genocide (properly named- Tuol Sleng museum) which was a high school before it was turned into a prison. S21 as it was known was where people were kept before taken to the killing fields. Prisoners were tortured and the thoughts were that it was helpful and cheaper to not have to transport and deal with them anymore. What once had been classrooms had obviously hastily been constructed into cells.
After the humbling afternoon I decided to walk around the market down the street. I was on a mission to buy a Cambodian SIM card so I can communicate. On my travels I’ve had some amazing adventures having a local number! Funny fact the hostel owner told me; Cambodia has more cell/mobile phone companies than any other Country in the world. Its shocking to see all the different options I had. There are at least 10 different prefixes (011, 012, 089, etc) that I keep seeing around town. Makes me wonder why such a poor country needs so many mobile phone providers but I guess the competition makes it cheaper? I wandered through the food market, down to the river and up the park in the middle. My stroll brought me to the most bustling, relaxing looking place around sunset. The locals were all out playing badmitton, exercising, or playing a few other games in the park strip that runs across from my hostel.
Unfortunately, right as I was enjoying my stroll I started to feel really unwell. Good old anti-malaria pills got to me… a couple times! I had dinner and a rest to let my tummy settle, read about SEA and decided to write my blogs! This way they are written and when I get Internet connection they can go up, super fast! I know they are way long and probably boring to most. But I thought I’d get back into blogging… for now anyways! Well, sleep beckons as I know at sunup its going to be lively outside my window and I think that’s only 5 hours away… I’m not so sure though seeing as I’m in the Northern Hemisphere now!
Lets see what tomorrow brings!
(Sorry, I KNOW the pics are messed up, loaded on top of each other, etc. I can't go back and fix it.. so just pretend it looks normal! I guess my only option is to do 'no layout' and have them all in one line down the side.)
Goodness me, I knew what I was getting myself into but it doesn’t make it any less shocking to the system! The first thing I had to do was bargain to get a cheap ‘tuk tuk’ ride from the airport to the hostel. Now for those that don’t know, all drivers have deals with certain guesthouses and try thus try to sell you on the ‘best one.’ I was having none of it. I knew the name of 2 hostels and was keen to see if I could find some backpackers and didn’t want a guesthouse!
Getting to the hostel is a completely different story. Everyone has seen the crazy driving in movies and on tv. But let me tell you… when you have bikes, motos, tuk tuks (I don’t even know if they’re called that here), cyclos, cars, big trucks all vying for the same 1 or 2 lanes it’s a BIT insane! Lanes are not important, horns are. Beep if someone is going to slow or blocking your bit. It’s a case of the bravest and biggest win. To add to the craziness most intersections are a game of chicken. There are some more major intersections with lights (that are mostly followed) that have awesome symbols and count down the time til green/red, respectively. Now I arrived to the capital of Cambodia so that means CITY. If you recall, they aren’t my favorite thing! SMOG, dust and everything was insane! Many drivers of the aforementioned vehicles wear face masks, and I reckon it’s a good idea I start back on my allergy meds!! I had a huge smile on my face the whole ride to the hostel! What and adventure!
After setting my two feet back on solid ground (seriously, I was scared at the start of the ride!) I realized any adventure would have to wait until after a nap! A couple hours later I was refreshed, showered and ready to go with the two girls from my hostel on that adventure! What better way to start my time in Cambodia than visiting the killing fields. We hopped back in a tuk tuk for a 15 km ride South of Phnom Penh which allowed us to see industrial bits, some villages, and day to day life (well, as well as going by it allows).
I’ll be the first to admit, I’m a big history buff, but not very up to date about anything in Southeast Asia. I know tid bits of info and stuff I’ve learned/heard over the years but that’s about it. The Choeung Ek Killing fields were used to mass slaughter prisoners in the late 1970s. Children were thrashed against trees and decapitated, men and women were often beaten to save bullets. They got off trucks, blindfolded, silent and often killed right away. Children and women, famous singers/actors/models, or being a foreigner (I believe 9 Australians) would not spare one the cruelty. Walking around the killing fields clothes and bone fragments are still visible in the dirt. A 17 story (I’m drawing a blank on the Buddhist monument name) was built to honour all those who lost their lives. Many of the mass graves were unearthed and the bones are separated by type (female/male/age) of skulls on level 2-10, clothes on 1, and the rest of the bones on 11-17. It was humbling to walk around and be face to face, literally, or so many innocent victims that didn’t have a chance. To realize this was happening the year my brother was born was a bit terrifying. (While not exactly within my lifetime, its only 3 years before I was born.) The only other time I’ve been as humbled was walking through Auschwitz. It really makes me wonder about humans and who we are or claim to be.
We then went to the Genocide (properly named- Tuol Sleng museum) which was a high school before it was turned into a prison. S21 as it was known was where people were kept before taken to the killing fields. Prisoners were tortured and the thoughts were that it was helpful and cheaper to not have to transport and deal with them anymore. What once had been classrooms had obviously hastily been constructed into cells.
After the humbling afternoon I decided to walk around the market down the street. I was on a mission to buy a Cambodian SIM card so I can communicate. On my travels I’ve had some amazing adventures having a local number! Funny fact the hostel owner told me; Cambodia has more cell/mobile phone companies than any other Country in the world. Its shocking to see all the different options I had. There are at least 10 different prefixes (011, 012, 089, etc) that I keep seeing around town. Makes me wonder why such a poor country needs so many mobile phone providers but I guess the competition makes it cheaper? I wandered through the food market, down to the river and up the park in the middle. My stroll brought me to the most bustling, relaxing looking place around sunset. The locals were all out playing badmitton, exercising, or playing a few other games in the park strip that runs across from my hostel.
Unfortunately, right as I was enjoying my stroll I started to feel really unwell. Good old anti-malaria pills got to me… a couple times! I had dinner and a rest to let my tummy settle, read about SEA and decided to write my blogs! This way they are written and when I get Internet connection they can go up, super fast! I know they are way long and probably boring to most. But I thought I’d get back into blogging… for now anyways! Well, sleep beckons as I know at sunup its going to be lively outside my window and I think that’s only 5 hours away… I’m not so sure though seeing as I’m in the Northern Hemisphere now!
Lets see what tomorrow brings!
(Sorry, I KNOW the pics are messed up, loaded on top of each other, etc. I can't go back and fix it.. so just pretend it looks normal! I guess my only option is to do 'no layout' and have them all in one line down the side.)
Home is where my backpack lies
Well, as I’ve been known to do from time to time, I completely procrastinated getting any vaccines to come to Southeast Asia. However, in my defense, I spent the last 7 weeks in the middle of Kakadu National Park without regular phone or internet (so no research available and no clinics near with which to get jabbed. When moving up my flights out of Australia, I did consider staying in Darwin to do some vaccines but decided I could do them in Singapore. And on top of that I decided I didn’t need to spend much time there as it is not on the top of my ‘must see’ places.
With that in mind, I arrived in Singapore, got through customs, found the MRT (train) and my hostel all by 830 on Sunday night without any hassles. My first thought was how WEIRD it was to be back in a hostel. Yes, I stayed in some in NZ/Aus but it was a different context in my mind. I had more belongings and felt lived there (or somewhere close by). In my mind I kept saying a combination of things: “What in the world are you doing starting this craziness again!?! I’ve missed the hostel world with random strangers turned instant friends. I wonder how much more I can get rid of out of my backpack!”
I spent a lovely night and morning talking to some great people and was in no rush to go explore the crazy city of Singapore. If you didn’t know, I’m NOT a city person. I do not enjoy the craziness, people, buildings and anything else that comes with them. I finally set out for the day to figure out where to get some vaccinations. Turned out I needed to go to the Travllers Clinic at one of the hospitals. In total it cost me $250 to get: two shots, 4 months anti malaria pills (they have to be taken for 1 month after leaving the region), and the actual visits to the two clinics. Not bad, and I reckon cheaper than it would’ve been in Aus and a much more enjoyable experience. I then ended up exploring a bazillion shopping centres. I was overwhelmed at seeing so many old brands. Its been almost 3 years since I left home (& 2 years since London) so to see the old recognizable brands, stores, etc again was pretty crazy. I know I didn’t spend the last 2 years in the middle of the outback but I did spend hours just wondering around the shops… and buying nothing buy some fruit.
Thailand Dragon fruit to be exact. I’d tasted it once and thought the colors were pretty awesome. Here are some pics (sorry, I wasn’t being clever, just trying to get the contrast in colours).
I continued my aimless wonders, exploring Singapore from the MRT station that led to countless malls (seriously!) never feeling the need to venture out into the torrential downpour that was there that day. In my desire to avoid the city, smog, cars, etc I did alright. I did walk through China town (keeping with the shops) which was one of the best I’ve ever seen.
I met up with a Dutch couple in Little India for dinner. We did our own money exchange (they were heading to Aus and I needed USD coming to Cambodia where they’d just left). Enjoyed a great night of convo and then they left to the airport, and I shortly after.
One of the joys of backpacking on a budget is well, being frugal. I found out the MRT and buses didn’t run at the early hour I’d need them so my only option was a taxi. Of course, I found this out only after I’d paid for both nights. Well, in the end I decided to forfeit my money on the bed as I’d save heaps more taking the train before 11 (to get my deposit on the travel card before that office closed). I put my big bag in left luggage and then attempted to sleep. It was a painful attempt. The construction all around, hard annoyingly spaced curved plastic seats did nothing to help the matter. Needless to say I was thrilled to get onto the flight where I slept from sitting down for about 1-2 hours! Best nap, ever!
Well, I didn't take many photos.. and I've got to sort out the issue with the amount of online storage...so I guess no pics for now :-(
With that in mind, I arrived in Singapore, got through customs, found the MRT (train) and my hostel all by 830 on Sunday night without any hassles. My first thought was how WEIRD it was to be back in a hostel. Yes, I stayed in some in NZ/Aus but it was a different context in my mind. I had more belongings and felt lived there (or somewhere close by). In my mind I kept saying a combination of things: “What in the world are you doing starting this craziness again!?! I’ve missed the hostel world with random strangers turned instant friends. I wonder how much more I can get rid of out of my backpack!”
I spent a lovely night and morning talking to some great people and was in no rush to go explore the crazy city of Singapore. If you didn’t know, I’m NOT a city person. I do not enjoy the craziness, people, buildings and anything else that comes with them. I finally set out for the day to figure out where to get some vaccinations. Turned out I needed to go to the Travllers Clinic at one of the hospitals. In total it cost me $250 to get: two shots, 4 months anti malaria pills (they have to be taken for 1 month after leaving the region), and the actual visits to the two clinics. Not bad, and I reckon cheaper than it would’ve been in Aus and a much more enjoyable experience. I then ended up exploring a bazillion shopping centres. I was overwhelmed at seeing so many old brands. Its been almost 3 years since I left home (& 2 years since London) so to see the old recognizable brands, stores, etc again was pretty crazy. I know I didn’t spend the last 2 years in the middle of the outback but I did spend hours just wondering around the shops… and buying nothing buy some fruit.
Thailand Dragon fruit to be exact. I’d tasted it once and thought the colors were pretty awesome. Here are some pics (sorry, I wasn’t being clever, just trying to get the contrast in colours).
I continued my aimless wonders, exploring Singapore from the MRT station that led to countless malls (seriously!) never feeling the need to venture out into the torrential downpour that was there that day. In my desire to avoid the city, smog, cars, etc I did alright. I did walk through China town (keeping with the shops) which was one of the best I’ve ever seen.
I met up with a Dutch couple in Little India for dinner. We did our own money exchange (they were heading to Aus and I needed USD coming to Cambodia where they’d just left). Enjoyed a great night of convo and then they left to the airport, and I shortly after.
One of the joys of backpacking on a budget is well, being frugal. I found out the MRT and buses didn’t run at the early hour I’d need them so my only option was a taxi. Of course, I found this out only after I’d paid for both nights. Well, in the end I decided to forfeit my money on the bed as I’d save heaps more taking the train before 11 (to get my deposit on the travel card before that office closed). I put my big bag in left luggage and then attempted to sleep. It was a painful attempt. The construction all around, hard annoyingly spaced curved plastic seats did nothing to help the matter. Needless to say I was thrilled to get onto the flight where I slept from sitting down for about 1-2 hours! Best nap, ever!
Well, I didn't take many photos.. and I've got to sort out the issue with the amount of online storage...so I guess no pics for now :-(
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