Tuesday, June 15, 2010

End of London

My last week in London was crazy.

Pete had bed bugs... so sleeping was quite the ordeal. Stripping beds, multiple trips to the dry cleaner, making beds, stripping curtains, doing laundry, vacuuming, crawling around on hands and knees looking for the little critters, and pretty much getting no sleep!!

Turns out he'd had them the whole time. I was getting bitten... but at the beginning I'd thought it was bugs outside... and really bugs just LOVE me. Seriously, I have a reaction to every kind of bug. They love to eat my blood! What is it! I'd wake up in the middle of the night and have huge welts... ugh. Not fun! Basically, I'm anywhere that bugs are... and people are happy because I get bitten and not them!!

To make my last week exciting.... I decided to go to the Globe theatre. It was a great experience. I really wish I'd seen a play I knew though... as Shakespeare is not the easiest thing for me to follow!

I also so Mamma Mia!! I loved it! It was great!!

Pete and I did just spent time together... watching Scrubs... dinners.. and whatever else nothingness we got up to.

Cory arrived the last weeekend. Him and I walked from Petes flat to Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, and then the square (just went blank on the name)... then the last night all of us went to Brick Lane to get some Indian!

Twas good. I enjoyed my time in London. Miss Pete lots!

Saturday, May 15, 2010

London Living

My time spent in London... has been really boring.

Literally, I sleep in, maybe meet up with Pete, do laundry, talk to pete about our nights plans, maybe watch scrubs, meeting up with others for lunch, bus/day trips to see Australian coworkers and sometimes I even get online to look up all the stuff I need to get done. Oh, I've seen 2 movies during the last 2 weeks, gone to a CS meet up, work drinks with Pete... basically we seem to do stuff at night... well, at least meet up and do dinner. Its sad when dinner is cheaper to do out (cuz he has a two for one at a lot of places) and my food is so expensive... and that way we can do stuff... since he works so late. Last weekend consisted of: sleeping in, making a really late brunch, Portobello Market, sitting around while Pete fixed a computer (That was torture as it turned into 8 hours.. and I would've done something but no one though it'd take that long), making a curry, going to sleep cuz Pete played xbox games with his brother in NY ... sleeping in, walking along the riverfront, showing Pete the Tower of London and Tower Hill (which we didn't go in), a fair trade fair, a trip to starbucks, the Tate Modern, and then a tube ride home.

Its been SOOOO cold, dreary and miserable that I haven't done much. The last thing i've wanted to do is walk around and get all down from the weather... i'm really affected by it.

So TODAY, turns out, the one day I told myself I'm ACTUALLy going to research the gazillion things I need to do... and not wonder around the neighborhood in circles (i seem to visit each of the grocery stores, often)... the sun decides to shine! Instead of going out into it though...i sucked it up and sat next to the windows while doing all my research! At least I got a bit done....and got a trim... which feels like a huge haircut. Maybe should've actually gotten more taken off and actually styled. Oh well.

Tonight is movie night. I'm gonna make nachos and watch a movie. And get up early tomorrow and spend my last weekend enjoying London. Maybe. Hopefully they'll be a bit of sun out!

I think i'm a sad London visitor... except I feel just like a Londoner... someone who isn't out to 'site see' and just lives their day to day lives in and around London. In the end.. I've seen and done more than Pete has... so I'm just enoying hanging out and visiting!

Thursday, May 13, 2010

The Netherlands, Holland and a world of the Dutch

Pete and I went to Holland for a long weekend.

We arrived Friday around 9pm ish... and it was crazy bright still. Not used to the light so dark... having been/lived close to the equator for the last few months.

Sadly we arrived into town pretty late for their National Day. Everyone (well, loads and loads of people) were on their way home. You could hardly walk at central station. Their national day is the 29th so many of these people had been partying in the streets since Thursday night. It was a site to see though... a sea of Orange. Orange on EVERYTHING, everyone, and anything possible!!

Mind you... holiday weekend.. and last minute trip. We were 3 kms outside the city centre... but still 'in' the city. And the prices were TRIPLE the normal costs. As in a 16 or 20 bed dorm room was anywhere from 35 to 60 Euros EACH! With that in mind Pete booked us a room... and one of the only rooms we could find (ok, we did book it Friday!) so we didn't have to deal with 15 crazy drunk people for 2 days straight!!! On the way to the hotel... i got kicked... 3 times.. on the crazy packed Metro. None of them were on purpose... but drunk people do drunk and stupid things. I got walked on, spilled on. Seriously, even Pete was doing it. I thought maybe I had a label on that I'd forgot to remove.. or some sort of target!! Well, we finally dropped off our bags and decided to walk back into town and see who was still about.

The town was 'dying' down. Well, not really. There were bits we walked around that were sooo crowded you couldn't get past. There was trash EVERYWHERE, there were bits closed off. Basically, one could see that it'd been a GREAT party during the day. To me it seemed like people were sooo far past their happy point and were just stumbling around. We walked around a bit but I was freezing and exhausted and wanted to go back.

Saturday... I had the best of intentions to wake up early and make the most of the day. But instead... jet lag really got me that day... so I slept in. Think i got out of bed in just enough time to go get a cup of tea before breakfast closed at 11. We ended up getting in line at a museum to decide we didn't have enough time before the walking tour. We met up with Daniella (someone Pete met in the South Island in NZ) who lives an hour away in Holland. We did the walking tour.... with 61 other people (in just OUR group)... there were 3 or 4 groups that day. Literally, thats how crowded the city was! We ended up getting Mexican for a really late lunch... sitting inside... meeting up with an old co workers of petes... taking Daniella back to the station.. and exploring the Red Light District. (which I'll get to in a bit)

Having just spent 8 months in summer and no where near anythign cold.. I didn't have a proper jacket. I had picked one up from Davids (one of very few things I got to keep) but for some strange reason didn't bring it. I also had thrown out ALL of my scarves, gloves and hats. Don't ask. But in my mind May= spring and warmth. Oh, i know, i had taken my RAIN coat thinking with a jumper it'd be plenty. Remember... I was thinking warm... not FREEZING!! Turns out. I was wrong. I was no where NEAR warm. I had gone from 30+ degrees for 8 months to 3 degrees. And when you realize I'd spent the last 4 months closer to 40 degrees... it was over a 35 degree temperature flux!! I didn't handle it well with just a thin jumper and rain coat!!!

Ok, so basically the weekend went like this: sleep in, freeze, avoid the cold, freeze, complain, repeat, continue. I was miserable!!

Sunday: sleep in... freezing in line in the rain for 2 hours for the Van Gough museum....walking through the museaum..... waited at HardRock (i have to buy shot glasses) to decide that we wnated Mexican instead... finding the mexican.... searching online for an hour for a new hotel (that would take us for just one night)... finding the new hotel which was in the city centre so we could explore.... searching for an ATM... paying for said room.. and getting into room and realizing it was the size of a tissue box but a cool loft style room.... me falling asleep while Pete looks up somewhere to explore for the night.... me convincing Pete that its TOOOOO WAY TOOOO Cold to leave the room to go anywhere... and then... both sleeping.

Monday: Sleeping in (ok, I said I'd gotten lazy)... going to the Anne Frank House... deciding that I wouldn't stand in the cold and rain for 2 hours... even though it was teh ONE thing I wanted to do in Amsterdam. Walking around to coffee shops (which mean a place to smoke pot) and looking at random things. Going to the train station and heading to Delft to stay the night with a friend of Pete's from uni. Getting to Delft... looking at old pics... walking through the city centre to a pub... going to another pub... cooking an awesome gluten free vegan dinner....starting a movie... me falling asleep.

Tuesday: waking up at a reasonable hour... enjoying a breakfast FEAST... train back to Amsterdam...back to the Anne Frank House.. this time we waited as it wasn't as cold or wet...enjoying it but getting really depressed... walking around the red light district.. enjoying a couple shots... more mexican.... more walking around.. and then off to the train... airport...flight.. and then getting the millionth degree from immigration in the uk!

Wow. The Red Light District. Its a bit shocking. And a bit not as exciting as I'd heard it talked up to be. There are chicks in windows... literally. All day long, even across from the 'Old Church' trying to get you to open their door for 15 mins of pleasure. It'll only cost you around 60 Euros. It was crazy to see that even during the day there were so many girls in the windows. There are different areas: for those with different preferences (think ethnic, cross dressers, big boned, etc) you just have to search and you can be as happy as your heart or pocket book would allow. Now my thought always goes to the guys walking into/out of these rooms. What do they think? Do you think they have any thoughts about what the people that see them think? Or when you resort to a prostitue does it not matter what a random stranger thinks when you walk out of a room? I dunno.. but I was feeling bad FOR THEM.. and they sure as hell didn't seem to care!!! also in the Red light district are sex shops, sex shows, coffee shops, and anythign else you can think of.

However, in saying all this... it was no where near what I thought it'd be. I'd heard Amsterdam worked and talked up to be this crazy place. I had such a laid back, relaxed and low key weekend. I had a couple drinks... mostly cuz the last day Pete set out to find a good brownie and I decided I'd have a drink or two as I wasn't going near Pot. Seriously, we didn't party, we enjoyed a bottle of wine in Delt, i had a glass of wine another night. I think i've become boring.

Now for those as confused as I was.... Holland is The Netherlands as The Netherlands is Holland. Its a nickname that has now taken over the Dutch world! Haha!!!!

It was a fun trip.. and glad we chose there as it was one place I didn't get to in my backpacking adventure in the Summer of 07!

My birthday!

I booked my flight to London crazy quick so I could spent my birthday in London with a true friend .

I woke up and had great aspirations for doing awesome things.... instead... I think I lazed around for 1/2 the day!

I met up with Pete for lunch and treated myself to an awesome gluten free vegan lunch and dessert. Then I wondered around Oxford street looking for a few odds and ends.

That night Pete and I saw Les Miserables. It was cool. Totally enjoyed it. Neither of us knew the songs ahead of time... but were happy to actually recognize many of them.

After we got Indian and enjoyed a bottle of wine. Came back to his flat, had another glass of wine.. and I passed out in bed from exhaustion!!

Was a great and low key birthday!

Cham Am to London

Well... I had quite the long adventure to end my SE Asia trip and arrive in London!

*3 hour bus trip Cha Am to Bangkok
*2 hour wait on the side of the road for supposed airport bus (that never came)
*45 min taxi ride to airport
*check in and 3 hour wait at airport
*most horrendous 10 hour flight to Cairo (words can't describe how horrific this was.. so I'll just not even attempt)
*5 hour layover in Cairo
*5 1/2 hour flight
*45 mins through security, getting bag, walk to tube
*30 min tube ride to Pete's
*2 hours: shower, get new sim card
*1 1/2 hours: tube/train ride to Rainham, Kent to David's
*3 hours to sort through all my crap (sooo much!)
*1 1/2 hour train/tube ride back to pete's in London

During that journey.... I slept:
*1 hour on flight from Bangkok to Cairo (ugh, again, I'm going to NOT mention how horrific this flight was!)
*1 1/2 hours during layover
*the BEST 20 min nap on Cairo to London flight (seriously, cat naps sometimes are sooo much more restful!)

I was super exhausted by the time I made it back to Pete's!

I had made note that I started my JOURNEY (that doesn't include the gettting up, time spent ath beach, etc that day) at 9am London time on TUESDAY and collapsed (literally after walking in the door, putting jammies on and brushing my teeth!) into bed at 11:45 WEDNESDAY night!

The stupid thing was.. I was wide awake the next morning... because my body thought it was the afternoon. However, jet lag hit me the next day or two (thrown in with the flight to Holland, another time change, etc)!

Monday, April 26, 2010

Positive thinking

Starting now:

I'm going to accept my body had a different idea for the last week of my travels than I did.

Yes, I may have wanted to trek, explore, beach, etc but I will accept and understand that it wanted/needed different.

I will not feel guilty or mad for not getting to do what I wanted/planned but glad that I am not more injured or hurt from the fall and whatever bug I have will pass.

I will be glad and positive that it WILL be gone before my flight to London and birthday (I had the flu bad 2 years ago on my birthday).

Sorry if I was negative. Its hard sometimes when your mind plans one thing, your klutzy self does another and thus body must have another.

Positive thoughts and thankful for not being worse!


Dear digestive track, I'd appreciate it if you'd resume your original anatomical function, immediately. While my a/c room has allowed great catch up on sleep lost from the numerous overnight bus journeys, I really fancy the chance to see & enjoy the beach that is just around the corner for my last 2 days in Thailand. Your cooperation would be much appreciated! Cheers, your frustrated owner!

Cha Am, the Thai Beach

Ok, so I picked Cha am as my last place in Thailand because I knew it was a place Thai's came to the beach for the weekend. I knew I could get a proper cultural beach experience instead of one in Phuket or any of the other islands geared towards tourists.

However, I've now been here for 1 1/2 days and only left my room for a total of an hour. I've been sick as a dog :-( Not felt this bad in a LONG LONG time.

After my nap got up and went for a walk. That was great. Walked up the south and north streets. only 'white' people I saw were obviously with Thai people. I enjoyed that. usually I'd attempt to talk, make friends, etc. Except I felt crap. My stomach hurt and turning, I was bloated I ached, had a stuffy head, and oh, my body was still hurting in random places from the fall. I had dinner and promptly came back to bed... well my room anyways.

I've been stuck in my room with a case of not being able to leave the toilet for more than a VERY short period of time. Not sure if i ate something bad, got whatever everyone on the last few buses seemed to have, had gluten in food somehow, or what. But OH MY GOODNESS. My stomach has been hurting... soo much. My head is stuffy. My tummy is turning. Its crampy and icky.

I'm sooo thankful that I 'splurged' on the room with AC. Actually, turns out while it is douple to triple what I'd been paying the rest of my trip its actually cheap for the town.

So today, I've laid in bed and watched the same 3 episodes of Monk, SVU, and I cant even remember now... felt sorry for myself for not being able to leave the room for more than 5 mins.

I've tried. I've walked to the beach... road... thats as far as I made it before having to turn around. I got dinner to go. I've felt more sorry for myself. Then glad.... because I have a huge day of travel coming up and glad its happening now and not in 2 days. Then felt pissed off because I've been at the 'beach' for 2 days and yet to actually walk on the becah. (ok, i knew yesterday would probably be a write off after 3 night buses in 1 week but come on, two days!)

I'm determined to take as much Immodium as it takes to let me leave the room tomorrow. Ok, that may not be technically smart but it didn't work today.... it cant go on for two days, can it? Oh, and since about mid day i've been throwing up too. Lovely.

Come on body... rid yourself of this bad stuff so I can enjoy the beautiful sunny beach tomorrow!!! Please, I beg of you.

Well, while i feel guilty for wasting time indoors when there is so much to see, what can i do if my body decides its had enough!?!!!

Chiang Mai

What an AWESOME night market! Literally huge!! Walked around for hours.... trying to stretch my back after the long bus... but popping ibo and battling the tears/pain!

I found an awesome shirt for my brother, and 2 for myself. And an awesome dress for Anna. I could've bought more clothes... but stopped at that. Could've figure out any other good gifts. I was wishing the last two markets that I'd splurged in Cambodia on the silk bed stuff though... it was awesome!

I woke up early the next morning, as I'd emailed the lady from the ESL centre for Ukraine that I'd be online for the interview. It took me AN HOUR to find somewhere open...besides McDonalds/Starbucks (which I refused to pay $5 for 1 hours internet!).. or street stalls which don't have internet! Seriously, it was 7 and the locals had all been up and to their local markets already but everything geared towards tourists was locked tight!! Interview was great, except the internet at the place got cut off right at the crucial end of the convo!! oops!

Again, this was a place I had been sooo excited about trekking, cooking classes, etc. I had asked after arriving and everywhere I asked I could maybe eat one dish. Even the vege places didn't have much optionwise for me.. and I just decided I didn't want to waste my money. I REFUSED to do the 1 day treks that exploit the 'long neck' hilltribes and elephants in the region. So that left my day pretty wide open. I found teh big shopping mall which took hours (walking there, around it, and back). Again, I could barely move but decided stretching my body was the best thing to do....cuz you guessed it, another night bus for me! That avo I got my first Thai massage. Thats quite the experience... not so much massage and stretch, bend and loosen up...actually just what i needed! Had dinner at an awesome Vege place and back to another bus!!!

our tuk tuk was the first to arrive at the bus so those of us on it all go to pick our seats. I was LUCKY and go the best seats! Again, got my own row, and even had no one in front of me as it was the stairwell, so i could put my feet up. Took some more pills and hoped for the best. They were playing Avatar and fell asleep about 2/3 in. However, my sleep lasted aprx 1 1/2 hours.... until the 1130 dinner stop? What the heck? How retarded!! After that, no sleep for me! We arrived and literally got dumped out on the side of the road in Bangkok at 5 am! Great! I found the popular tourist road... found a tuk tuk that wasn't going to robe me blind in price.. and went straight to the Southern Bus station. Got there with 10 mins to spare and got on the bus to Cha am for 4 1/2 hours. Got another 1/2 hour sleep on that bus. Walked 2 1/2 kms to find a GH. Got online, and then crashed.... till 430 pm. Eh, it was overcast and muggy out anyways!

LP to the Laos/Thai border to Chiang Mai

Oh, 2nd night bus in a few nights. This time I'd bought my own sleeping pills.

I was in severe pain and hoping they'd work like magic. (Ok, to clarify, these are non addictive, muscle relaxer, anti anxiety, etc pills... used for lots of things including insomnia.)

I got SOOO lucky and got a whole seat to myself. I was the only Westerner and they didn't mix us with the locals. Totally glad I was traveling alone!

Well, this road was the WORST road. Bumpy, turny, crazy, words don't describe it. Now most people take a 2 day slow boat to avoid this bus trip... but I didn't have time so I had to endure.

The pills didn't work. Well, i was slamming my head, falling off the seat, and just plain being thrown about too much to have any sleep.

A funny part of the journey. We stopped around 5 am and I had to use the bathroom. We were supposed to pay 1000 kip (like 13 cents) but I literally only had enough kip to get me the tuk tuk and boat across the border and not 1000 to spare!) so I used it without paying. I ignored the guy when he was shouting at me... he ran after me and kept shouting at me. I kept saying sorry, I don't have any. No money, no kip, sorry, sorry. He was sooo pissed. The girl on the seat in front offered to pay for me and he wouldn't take her money (for me) because he wanted me to pay... but i literally had no money. And mind you i saw a couple guys go in and not pay.. and they don't evne have to use the stupid toilets as they can go anywhere! Ugh, I hate being female sometimes!

So we get to the Thai border town around 930 am (16 hours after being picked up at my GH) and get to the river. Now everyone had apparantely booked their ticket all the way to Chaing Mai, except me. I knew it'd be cheaper to do it as two separarte journeys... except I refused to tke out more Kip at the atm. So I finally convinced the guy to give me a seat in the bus (along with the boat to cross the river.. which is the official border) and that I'd take out Baht to pay him in thailand. Kip is useless and each time you use an ATM in this part of the world its about a $5 fee, and I didn't want more kip and didn't wnat to pay the fee twice in one day!! I paid the guy.. we waited for awhile and got in a mini bus.

At one point towards the end my back was so bad along with my neck/legs/arms that I was again in tears. Literally, spasming up and down my legs and my neck was so stiff from jarring it I couldn't look at all to the sides.

22 1/2 hours after leaving my GH in Luang Prabang, Laos I arrived at my GH Chiang Mai, Thailand!!!!

Luang Prabang

This was a place I had been really looking forward to visiting!! There are some amazing treks in the hills surrounding, awesome Wats, and its just supposed to be a great place to chill out.

Well, after a crazy bus ride, where I thought we might go over the side of hills (think roads crazier than NZ!) I made it. At least I had a seat to myself and could stretch out and not get too cramped.

Great, well, as I could hardly move by the time we arrived. I realized there was NO WAY I could do a trek. Instead I explored the awesome night market, found amazing vege food I could eat. Ok, so my excitement was over cucumbers and tomatoes mostly.. but hey, i got a whole plate of food for under $1. Which I could've had that more often!

I went on a walk with the couple to the river and met this lovely Laos guy. We ended up talking for awhile, walking around, and attempting to communicate. He's learning english... and its always a fun adventure. He was going to take me to a Laos bar outside of town but I bailed as I was hurting WAY WAY too much. The couple hours spent with him make me love traveling!

A huge 'tourist attraction' in LP is the morning monk procession. Now, I'm not sure why its so popular there... but I decided to get up and watch. Monks traditionally live off the donations and alms they receive. They walk around at daybreak to receive them.

I couldn't get a straight answer on time. It varied from "5, done by 530, to 6 or done by 6." I decided to get up at 445 and just go with it. I had to break out of the GH and instantly was followed by drunk crazy guy. Turned around, walked the other wahy.. he followed. Repeat and repeat. Walked up to a couple and started talking to them. Turns out, he'd followed them earlier... and continued to follow all of us. He wasn't threatening just creepy and obviously drunk. We wondered what time this process took place and sat on the kerb and waited. The women selling rice showed up.. so at least we knew we were in the right place.

I guess at one point the monks decided they would no longer go around and take offerings because it'd turned into too much of a tourist charade. The city told them they'd hired actors and pretty much MADE them continue doing it. There are MANY customs that go with this tradtion. Including such things as woman being lower than the monks, etc.

Well, the monks soon came.. and soooo did the tacky ANNOYING stupid tourists. I HATE stupid annoying tourists. Again, this deserves its own blog, so I'll stop there. Anyways, I watched, others were rude and in the monks face taking pictures.

I had planned to rent a bike and cycle around to the wats. But that morning I could barely move. Like WAY worse than the day before. I headed back to lay down for 2 hours. Walked around and saw a few Temples. Spent time indoors attempting not to melt in the heat (boy was it hotter than it'd been since Cambodia). I basically spent the day upset that I was in soo much pain that I couldn't do what I'd wanted and knowing I was getting on another crazy long bus ride that night. UGH

Stairwell acrobatics

HOLY CRAP.

Am I lucky to be alive.

I was walking down the flight of stairs... and once a klutz... always a klutz.

My ankle gave out on me.

I went FLYING.

I did a somersault.

I flew down some more stairs.

And then I CRASHED, SMACKED, and landed.

on TILE.

I was wearing both my backpacks.

Thank goodness.

Well, I could've get up because my arms were bent back in a way (and if you've worn 2 you know how hard it is to get them off) that I couldn't move them.

My legs were already black and blue in spots.

BUT I didn't hit my head or snap anything. And I'm thankful as heck.

Thank goodness. My backpacks really saved me, in that, I know for a fact.

The couple I'd hung out with on and off for the day ran over and helped me up, Marie ran down as well.

Guess what I got to do right after this awesome acrobatic display?

Yup, you guessed it... get on a 8 hour bus trip!

Vang Vieng

Gorgeous was my first impression. Nam Song River set amongst beautiful limestone cliffs/hills! Way to westernized was my second.

Showered, lunched, internet time (to buy my ticket to London) and ready to explore.... we found a local cave. As I'd seen a few caves lately, I didn't pay to go in. After Marie came down (and assured me it was a waste of her money!) we went swimming with the locals. It was awesome. It was this cave under the hill thing? I dunno... we jumped in crystal clear water and just kept swimming deeper into the cave... but stopped when it got too dark. Again, I seemed to be a hit with the Laotians. There is this bar called Bucket Bar and if you go before a certain time you get a free BUCKET of alcohol. I went, didn't drink (thank goodness I can't have whiskey!) and left shortly after. My back was spasming REALLY bad and I again was in tears from it. And I hadn't been feeling the party thing lately as anything I can drink is 3 times the price of beer or the cheap whiskey. Oh, that night was an awesomely loud storm and about 230 in the morning (i was awake from the back pain) a huge BOOM echoed through the streets and the power went out.

Now I must explain a bit about vang vieng. Its a drunken fest for westerns. There is a river set amongst gorgeous hills where you tub. Well, some people tube. At the start of the river are a BUNCH of bars and each have either a zip line or roap swing. Think high up and awesome. Now, remember its dry season and the water is low. Combine that with way too much alcohol. Oh, and the entire town is full of these 'friends bars.' They have tables and pillows set out and Friends blaring. A couple play another show (think south park or simpsons) but 85% are Friends and all a different episode, season, etc. How pathetic... travel to Laos and spend days sitting around watching friends!

Ok, so my version. Marie and I went cheap and rented 1 tube to share. We stopped at a few of the bars. Played on some awesome rope swings and zip lines. I kept encouraging her to move on as I actually wanted to tube the river. Short version. It was a good compromise of swinging, zip lining and her hanging out and us tubing. Just incase you wondered, the water was a decent level from the few storms the nights before. However, tubing 2 to one tube was very hard! We sucked at it, actually. We had to push, crawl and climb our way at times (the water was really low at points). In the end we relaxed, joked about how inept at tubing we were and eventually had to get out and take a tuk tuk back to get the tube back so we didn't get a fine.

That night I met up with Micky that I met while volunteering in Cambodia. Must admit the dinner that night was enjoyed over a great episode of friends as we were a bit sore from the flying adventures. Again, everyone went to bucket bar and Miek and I enjoyed a great cup of tea then headed to our respective beds (at 1015!)

I woke up way too early the next morning because I was going to find a village to volunteer in for a few days. Turns out I decided I wanted to go north and do some trekking and see some hilltribes. Bought a bus ticket to Luang Prabang and was really excited

The Sleeper Bus

North, north, must go NORTH!

The bus from Pakse to Vientiane is a night bus. One can choose the 'sitting' or 'sleeping' bus.

Well, after being told the bus offices didn't open til 8... and trying numerous times (at 6.. and finally convincing him to call 5 mins before 8)... Marie and I were told the bus was sold out. So we took a morning walk to the bus station. From there we thought we had only one option: the dreaded sitting bus. But, we could see the diagram and we were going to pick the best seats! Instead, we found another company that still had a bed... and spent 20000 extra kip (about $3) on the bed!! And then wasted the day in Pakse... cuz everything was still closed.

The sleeper bus! Turns out, you get to SHARE a bed thats about 2/3 the size of a twin! I had 9 and Marie had 8... we assumed they would've assigned us to the same bed. I got on and said "9" and this Laotian guy got really excited and said "you 9, I 10, you 9, I 10." He was excited that we were going to share a bed for the night. Instead I walked past him and told Marie, "whoever has the 7 to your 8 gets to be 9!" and promptly sat down with her on the bed. It turned out fine as they kept moving everyone around to be with the friends, etc.

So that night I must've had something that told guys to hit on me. While we were waiting for the bus this guy kept hitting on me. It was great and funny. He kept saying "you speak Laos, I no speak English." And then he'd attempt to teach us a few words in Laos. Because Brett and Marie were sharing a beer we HAD to cheers a gazillion times (that is a huge thing in Laos!) well, I wasn't drinking so he took my water and opened it and made me cheers too. And he kept refilling my cup if I drank it. I had to hide it because I didn't want to have to use the loo on the bus! He was trying to find it... it was great... and he was trying to get me to go home with him and hang out in Pakse for a few more days.. and not get on the bus! Then all 3 of the guys that worked on the bus kept giving me the same smile and look. Now Marie is a gorgeous, skinny Dutch girl...who should've gotten all the attention and normally did... but that night they all seemed to hit on me. It gave us a good giggle, guy after guy smiling.

Back to the night bus. Brett had given us a 'sleeping pill' and I decided I'd take it and pray it worked. Well, Marie who didn't take one slept like a baby for the whole 11 hours. I, on the other hand who took the pill, didn't sleep for more than 30 mins. I had decided to sleep 'head to toe' so we'd have more wiggle room (we had to have our daybags on our seats and so our feet had to be ontop of them) which was good. Except at one point Marie's feet were in my face... and I kept shoving them... but she didn't budge. I just turned over and tried to fall asleep. I kept setting my sleep timer on my ipod for 60 mins praying i'd be asleep... and getting sad each time I had to turn it back on! Well, I'd FINALLY fallen asleep about 445 when about 30 mins later I got my shoulder pounded on! The lovely, nice bus guys hadnded me both our wet wipes. How nice but seriously, you could've pounded on and woken up Marie who got to sleep for the last 45 mins until arrival!!!

Once in the Capital we took a tuk tuk across town to the Northern Bus terminal and caught a local bus to Vang Vieng. Luckily, I got a seat...Marie was stuck on a plastic stool (they line the middle of the bus between the rows with these). On this 5 hour bus ride, I had the BEST 10 min nap! Literally, it revived me for the day!

Sabaidee Bi My (Happy New Year) on the Bolaven plateau

Wow! (Have I said that a lot. Seriously, wow, awesome, amazing!) 3 more wonderful days spent on a motorbike exploring the beautiful countryside and people of Laos. 6 of us: Myself, Rich, Brett, Karina, Damesh, and Marie were involved in this great adventure. The lovely Karina was my driver (who I must say did an awesome job putting up with my stress and also returning me in one piece having no major issues!)

I may have cheated and ridden on the back... but that doesn't matter! I've got a fear of motorcycles and had no desire to drive one, let alone for three days. And I almost even backed at last minute knowing it'd hurt my back. Well, I sucked it up and put on my smile and held my on TIGHT with my shaky hands.

To make this trip even better we did during Laos New Year. Now, to understand the level this took our trip to, one must understand a bit about the Laos, Cambodian and Thai new year. Its a huge water festival for 3 days. Everyone is throwing water, partying, drinking, listening to music, dumping more water on people, putting talc (baby powder) on people, more water, putting red lipstick on faces, more water and partying and dancing. Its amazing.

Our trip involved a waterfall the first day which made me think of Memorial Day or the 4th with families, and groups of friends all partying at the beach. Some were drinking (even used the old 'put the beer in the river to keep it cold' trick), some were hanging out with families and then there were the annoying (sorry to sound horrible... but had to have been Japanese) tourists who didn't care. We swam with the locals, looked around and got back on the bikes. This is where the fun began. In all the villages we road through children were standing on the sides of the roads throwing buckets of water on you, spraying you with hoses, throwing bags full of water, and even ice cubes.... anything to get you soaked!!! During this great time we came across many families, villages and groups partying: under houses, in gas stations, random spots on the sides of the road, and at markets. We would stop, get soaked, drink a bit of BeerLao (ok, not me as I can no longer drink beer), get powdered, dance and then get back on the bikes. This continued multiple times for the first two days. We partied with a copy, who MADE everyone drink beer and then waved as everyone drove off. We found a big carnival celebrating the new year. It had games, rides (ok, well, a merry-go-round swing that was man powered!), food stalls, and everything else you can imagine, including children betting games! That was serious business and went on all night. The next morning we swam in a huge waterfall, and took part in some sort of cleansing ritual??

Our adventures had us stopping at gas stations/'cafes' to avoid major downpours. We played the game where you put a name on foreheads and can only ask yes/no questions to figure out who you are. Stopping in random villages at the only food place using lonely planet to order noodle soup. Yes, the do think I'm weird when I ONLY want the noodles... no meat, no broth... that happened at least 3 times!

Everyone was in an amazingly happy, and most likely drunk, mood and celebrating. We all figured out that America and Australia play the same rules in checkers while the UK and the Netherlands have a completely different game (supposedly the same...) and that Portugal is mixed somewhere in the middle of both!

By the last day we were sick of getting wet. It had felt great during the heat but the last day was a bit cool. After day 1 my back was hurting (it hurt just from tuk tuk rides around to temples...) and day 2 was worse.... bring on the worst day. Ugh! Day 3 involved 80 kms of a DIRTY BUMPY road. But to make it worth it the first 40 were through beautiful jungle, where we saw more waterfalls. At the end I could barely move. Literally was in tears the last 10 kms... and was sooo glad we had to sit out a storm during lunch as I was laying down at the lunch table resting my back! We were red... well, brown from head to toe from the dirt.... add the water we got splashed and it made it worse. One more waterfall stop on the way home and then it was back to Pakse where everything was shut down!

Oh, the Bolaven Plateau is known to make some of the best coffee in the world. We saw soo many fields of coffee plants. I actually saw what they look like during the growing process... and tasted one... ick! We were pretty bummed because we couldn't stop at the coffee plantations as they were all closed for the New Year. But we did enjoy a few cups of great coffee along the way!

The shower at the end was probably the longest and most wonderful shower we'd all taken in ages! Oh, and that night we waited 2 hours for our dinner.... in typical laotian style... which deserves an entire blog on its own!

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Don Det, Laos

AMAZING 2 days spent on Don Det, a quaint place in the 4000 islands.

A group of 5 of us: myself, Rich, Brett and two newbies from the bus, Karina and Damesh spent the time together. The first day we rented bikes and biked around Don Khon (or something??), spent a morning swimming in a waterfall, a 'beach', relaxing around the island and just taking it all in. It was an amazing low key day and lots of fun. Not much to say about it except you had to be there cuz it was amazing.

The next morning we set out on a 'boat' with 5 others for a group of 10. We spent the day floating and swimming in different parts of the Mekong, drinking, talking and just chilling. Another amazing awesome day! Again, had to be there.

Chilled, relaxed and some of the best adventures had in ages = Awesome. I love chilled out days exploring and just relaxing taking in the sites. Has to be one of my most favorite parts of travel. Love it!

Bus ride from Hell

OH MY GOD.

All I can say about the bus ride from Kratie to Don Det was MISERABLE.

For a 4 hour journey it was literally one of the worst experiences of my travels. Not sure why it bothered me so much... but freakin heck, it did!

First I was in the back corner of a completely full bus! Not good when I get sick! So I moved forward. Great! Then the guy next to me keeps falling asleep and being in my space. I'm already clausterphobic sitting next to the window! Oh, then the guy in front of me decides to put his seat back. Awesome, his seat goes soooo far back its way more than a normal seat! Perfect now I'm a sardine. Did I mention the AC wasn't working and I was sitting on the side with the sun burning through the curtain. I was covered in sweat and dripping bullets! Then the smell set in. The toilet had a leak and someone had taken a huge dump. I was sitting right above the toilet and next to the stairs so I surely had the best 'smell vantage point.' It smelt like piss/poo the rest of the way. Then it was time to cross the border into Laos. Well, at least that was smooth. It took awhile, as expected because everyone waits for the last person! Fine, at least I got to get out of the bus! It was also the first time I've walked across a border as I've always flown or in europe been on trains. That was 'exciting.' Back into the hot stink box I got for the bit to drop off point. The three of us added a bunch of others getting off to go to Don Det. We took a mini bus to the boat... where I experienced the Laosness for the first time. They are in no rush... more on this to come later! Eventually we set off to get to the island. Where we found bungalows and had a chill night! But anything would've been better than that bus ride.

Its crazy when something as simple as being smashed into a bus can be so stressful for me... I was serioulsy close to hyperventilating at times! It was insane. I've been smashed, squeezed and squished on buses/trains/boats,etc before but nothing was as miserable as that experience!

Phnom Penh, Kompong Cham to Kratie

Back to Phnom Penh where a lot of nothing happened. Supposedly had to stay there to get my visa for Laos. Basically wasted a couple days to get that processed and spent my days baking in the heat and uploading photos. Exciting, right? NO! Wasting a lot of money and time. And I got ripped off on the visa. They charged $50 and turns out I could've bought it at the border for 34.... stupid stupid stupid!

Next to Kompong Cham where I took we took a tuk tuk ride from hell out to some supposedly awesome Wat (temple) that was made of wood. It looked like all the others though, oh well. After we were supposed to go to a village full of silk weaving. Well, the driver took us to a different one than was listed in the lonely planet.... think he just wanted to save time and gas as it was closer. That was pretty amazing to see how time consuming the process is. Its insane!! After we rented bikes and road over this awesome bamboo bridge and around and island. Its rebuilt every year during the dry season and taken down during the wet. It doesn't look like it would support the weight of a motorbike let alone a car... yet everything went on it, even horses pulling farm stuff!


The next afternoon took us to Kratie where the mission was to find the ever allusive freshwater Irrawaddy River dolphin. They were pretty cool and while on the boat we noticed Brett on another. The sunset on the Mekong during the boat cruise was the best i'd seen in Cambodia, fitting for my last night there.

Monday, April 05, 2010

Ancient Wonders, Battambong floating villages

Should I have been more impressed by Angkor Wat? Probably!

Well, Rich (the australian I met in Phnom Penh) and I made our way EARLY (445 am) to get our tickets and the 'best' location to watch the sunrise. Like everyother major structure in the world when I visit, its under repair. That said, it impaired the picture and didn't make for such a grand pic. Bummer. Well, we didn't end up waiting for the sun to rise before we went inside. Its huge, and would've been amazing to see in its time... moats, water, tress, etc! It started getting more crowded once the sun was up and we headed out to Bayon. That one was cool! I knew I'd enjoy it just from seeing all the pics. I tried to take a bunch of awesome and fun pics but none turned out the way I had visioned... and again, I didn't get that perfect shot! Oh well, the faces were great! Then it was on to the Tomb Raider temple! That temple is completely falling apart and has been taken over by the jungle! It was pretty neat... but a lot of it is being retrofitted for safetly reasons, i would assume, and thus not accesible. Oh well, it was cool. Wel, at this point it was only 1030 so we headed into town to the market to get a cheap .50 fruit smoothie! They are totally addicting.

By chance I noticed the one bus company went to Battambang in the afternoon and that we wouldn't have to wait til the next morning so we packed and caught the afternoon bus. Battambang is pretty much like every other nonhuge city I've ever been to. Lots of little shops. I found a place with steamed corn at the market and for under $1 I had to things of corn and some rice for dinner... what a bargain!!

The next morning we headed out to three different temple sites. One was modern temples on a big hill. Another was ruins on a hill with a cool cave as the reward for scrambling down the back side (ok, we could've walked down the steps and then around the hill... but what fun is that!). The last was a modern temple in front of ruins. We also saw rice paper (that are used to make spring rolls) being made... thats quite the time consuming process!! Next we went on the bamboo train. Its this old train that locals use to get around (it goes in a straight line for about 7-10 kms). The rule of thumb is... which ever '"car" has the least amount of people, stuff (or no motos, etc) has to get off the track and disssemble their car. Its pretty cool.. and I got to drive it. It sounds like they are overhauling the trains in Cambodia to do international routes and this lovely piece of local life will die in the next year. As obviously a tiny bamboo one car train can't compete with huge trains! Google it...sorry i'm not in a descriptive mood currently!

The next morning we went to an even smaller town. We saw a floating village... its crazy. Everything floats.... schools, shops, industrial bits, houses, etc. The water does not look nice and they swim in it, bath in it, drink it, wash dishes in it and I'm assuming go to the toilet in it. Imagine that.

The next morning was Easter... and I celebrated by waiting for the bus for 3 1/2 hours... then sitting on a bus for 2 1/2 hours... walking around Phnom Penh for 1 1/2 hours cuz we were cheap and looking for the cheapest Guest house. But I did get Mexican twice! I'm pretty sick of rice.. and really my only other option is curry... and that involves rice!! I went back to my favorite coffee spot... where the guy remembered me. I only went three times... and that was over 2 weeks ago! It was great, I enjoyed 2 coffees, reading and talking to him on and off for awhile.

Today is about taking care of business. Printing CVs and Cover letters, getting passport photos (and to attach to the CV), applying for the Laos Visa, scan/emailing tax forms for NZ, etc, etc. This afternoon I'm off to different language schools. I can't decide: travel (as many schools are closed this week and for Khmer New Year next week) or stay and look for job??

Ok, well, sorry I'm not writing anything too exciting... but eh, its hot and I've got no energy! Oh, I slept MISERABLY last night. Part of being cheap is having a fan and not an AC and its is SOOOO hot in our room. UGH. Hopefully I'll crash tonight and sleep through the heat!

Sam Bat Village

I went into my village stay experience really excited... but upon arrival and looking at the squat toilet and bucket shower... I started thinking "what did I sign up for?" Well, that and Director Waha kinda gave me a weird feeling.

Well, I was throw into the first class a couple hours after arriving with the instructions "they'll show you what lesson to do." My first two classes were soooo stressful. I realized the kids were great at copying whats on the board, and reciting English outload but had ZERO understanding comprehension about what they'd (so called) learned to the point they were at. Add that to the fact that my whiteboard markers didn't work and the 2nd class was dark and they didn't turn the generator on and I was VERY STRESSED! I found that each class was an hour too long but the kids were great.

I had lots of fun playing games, teaching the hokey pokey, volleyball, etc with the kids. I tried to make a little difference in their lives. However, in saying that... its a bit hard. The director obviously has the children in mind in setting up the school. BUT he treats the volunteers as "customers" and NONE of us got a good vibe from him. We pretty much had to beg for the water that we actually had paid and he just made everyone uncomfortable. I had a blast with the volunteers and the locals. Meng and Pang, two of the student/teachers (adults who took the night class), were awesome and a lot of fun to hang out with and talk to. They showed us around the village, to a local temple in ruins in the jungle, cooked, etc. One night we had big night of drinking, singing and just hanging out. We kept getting random people from the village coming up and sitting and sharing in the fun (Mario was singing and playing his guitar!).

The kids were lovely. They were all very shy. Its great they are trying to learn english and each day they 'learn' a bit more. I could write for ages about my experience... but for now I think I'll end. It was an awesome experience but left me with something to be desired because of the director.

Again, I'll post pictures later...

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

6 months, 6 months, 6 months!!

It may seem so silly to most... but SIX MONTHS is a huge celebration for me! To go from multiple debilitating migraines a week to HALF A YEAR with none is incredible!

I'm amazed at how simple it is!! No gluten/dairy = no migraine! Well, count me in!

I know I keep blogging about it but some of you may or may not remember how bad they were. I couldn't keep a regular job, attend classes, or be reliable in any way because of the stupid migraines that ruled my life. Its now amazing to know when I make plans I won't have to cancel them half the time!

Ahh! I'm having a little party for myself!

Happy 1/2 year migraine free birthday to me!!

:-D

Western Day

Tuesday 23 March

I slept in today after spending so many hours yesterday running around looking at places. It sounds really strange, but I’m REALLY overwhelmed in my decision. Its not that hard, right? Especially when so many places need help! Well, in reality one has to take into account so many little things… that I never realized!

Well, after enjoying my lie in, having moved to a much quieter dorm part that allowed me some sleep, I found an indoors coffee shop with wifi. My $1 coffee bought me 2 hours on the internet and I could’ve stayed for longer but had to go and meet some people. I met with some young guys (maybe 18-25… its so hard to tell here!) that organize a village homestay. It sounds pretty cool but really seems like a way for them to get a bit of money, donations, and just outside influx. Great and totally needed but I think I want something a bit more structured where I know what I can give, besides an obvious financial donation, is making a difference. I did think that going out during the Khmer new year and spending it in the Countryside in a village would be awesome though and told them I’d be in contact.

I had a meeting at 4 to meet with someone from a flyer I’d seen around town. He was late but eventually got here. Hey, he did ride an hour just to talk to me for a few minutes!! His English isn’t so great but what he offers sounds amazing. He’s a director of a school about 30 kms outside the city. (The other one I liked was about 14 kms… that I’d have to bike to every day!)) I could live at the school and only pay $4 a day for food and a place to sleep. (Which in itself is probably raising them money.) Not exactly sure if its my own room or if I am sharing with the other volunteer there...but that’s not important. It sounds like classes are 7-9, 11-12, 1-3, 5-7… not sure if its split up for ages or what. But I’ll be teaching English, hanging out with the kids (aged 5 to adults) and just chilling. The school is run on a generator so it sounds exactly like what I wanted….a chance to really experience the Khmer culture and way of life. (from what he said other volunteers have stayed for 1 week to 8 months.) I believe school is 6 days a week and that I’ll be able to get a ride into town on Sundays.

Sooo…after starting to feel like maybe I was being too picky…I’m jumping in! I am being picked up at 10 on Thursday and will probably start teaching as soon as I get there (strange, eh!). I’m going to buy a weeks worth a breakfast foods to take, a book or two and dive in to unknown! (I’m thinking I’ll buy one big book as well. Then, if I need more I can get more when I’m in town on Sunday not having to take my big bag on the back of a moto!) I’m excited!!!

Oh, I named this blog ‘Western Day’ because I’m eating out every meal today. I had a coffee ($1), 2 eggs for lunch (.50), chips and salsa (1.50), a tostada (2), and a drink (2)… all in the effort to get free internet. I don’t feel guilty as I’ve had a bowl of white rice for dinner three nights running (.50)! I know its living ‘lavishly’ but I figure its allowed every now and then!!

Tomorrow I’m setting out to get my shorts taken in. I bought them in Nov/Dec and they will barely stay up now.. and I mean even with my belt in the smallest hole I can almost pull them down!! Its exciting to know I’ve lost so much weight but annoying cuz I should’ve bought new shorts before leaving Aus but I’d read you could get stuff dirt cheap here. Well, you can if you’re a man or a female that wants gypsy/hobo style clothes. That style doesn’t suit my personality, style or turn out the least bit flattering on me! Even though I’m not a fan.. I think I’ll cave and buy some. I know I’m going to buy a couple shirts as mine are again too big and I need something to cover my shoulders. Really, I could just use a trip to Gap for some of my tanktops, and old navy for a pair or shorts, and then to top it off REI for a pair of travel pant (with the zip off shorts)! I suppose I’ll make do without though!

Well, I wrote this blog during dinner. Not sure WHAT they used in their Mexican food… but it had gluten in it! Its killing me and straight away I can notice it turning my stomach and making me bloated and will probably go straight through me. Oh, I love this gluten intolerance. Every now and then I can tell I get traces of it... and I can tell within minutes, usually! Yay for living healthy!!

Oh, I realize my blog doens't match. Its been 2 years since i played with the backgrounds... and now I can't remember how! oops! I'll figure it out tomorrow! I'm over it today!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

On to Siem Reap

Sunday 21 March

I woke up feeling like a completely different person! Good thing, after wasting an entire day! I spent the morning figuring out what to do… which I seem to do a lot of these days! I decided to head to Siem Reap and see what I could figure out up there! I wandered through markets, paid my hostel bill and got a ride to the bus.

The bus was interesting… but not the craziest I’ve been on by any means! It was very modern, AC, tv, etc. It was more that it stopped at the bus depot for 30 mins and not even the locals could figure out why. The Cambodian soap was quite interesting… so much it put me to sleep in 10 mins! We road through countryside for 6-7 hours and saw: lots of Oxen pulling carts, rice paddies, villages, local stalls, and vendors. I’ve always enjoyed riding buses around countries as you really get to see what a country is like. Too bad I didn’t get to stop and play with any of the kids playing volleyball, or stay in a village. Now that would’ve been awesome!

I got to Siem reap and decided to go the cheap route and stay in a dorm for $1! Now, the average cheap room here is $4-5 and that includes a fan, and a bathroom with cold water (which is not up to any western standards). Now this ‘dorm’ was something else! I wasn’t tired at all after sleeping for so much the day before but I wasn’t in the mood to be social! I got in bed and decided to read. Now my ‘bed’ was located in a walkway to the back of the property in this guesthouse. Each side has mattresses with mosquito nets. Now as I was lying under my net, sweating buckets, going insane from the blaring rooftop bar music (that was directly above my bed) and being bitten to death I wondered if it was worth being cheap! I toughed it out… and only woke up every 15 mines or so to chase down something that was biting me! And I saved 4 on the room for the night! That’s one drawback about traveling alone, rooms are cheaper as its not split between 2!

Monday 22 March

As normal, I started my day online. I seem to spend parts of every day looking up schools/orphanages, texting and calling people. I made three appointments and called my tuk tuk driver from the night before. I like to make a connection with one driver and have them be my guide, per say, for a town. It supports them, and usually they’ll show you around and take you out with their friends on a night or two to see where the locals are. Well, Ree showed up with a moto! Ahhh!! I was scared!! I knew we had to go into the countryside and of course, a moto is easier, faster and cheaper to get around!! I held on for dear life and we were off!!

I checked out three different places. I’m REALLY struggling in deciding where to volunteer. I’ve got 2 (or 3) main problems. The first being that most of the places are outside the city. The problem comes to getting there everyday. Do I pay for a driver to take me, pedal a bicycle for 1-2 hours in 35 degree heat each way? The cost of being dropped off would be more than I’m paying for accommodation or food everyday. I feel like money shouldn’t be a problem while volunteering, but obviously, I’m on a limited budget and want to give my time. The second problem comes in that most of the schools will close next week for 2-3 weeks for Khmer New Year. While being here during that time will be awesome, its going to take away my time from volunteering. I find it a bit odd to start somewhere and know I won’t be able to give that much of my time once they start back up again. I started observing at a language school last and will start teaching on Wed. I feel a bit odd about this as the classes are at the end of the term and the teachers are finishing up lessons/units to get ready for the final next week. I’ve no experience in teaching English… but I speak it.. and much better than many of the Khmer teachers. So it’s a catch 22, let me help co teach for 2 weeks to get to know a class I’ll teach next term or just wait?

I haven't really explored the ciry much. I did walk through the night markets and around the old market, where I'm staying. This city seems to be the tourist capital of Cambodia.... which makes sense seeing that it caters to those visiting Angkor Wat. I haven't even thought about visiting there yet though!

I haven't taken any pictures in a few days... and still haven't figured out how to get pics from my picasa albums to this blog. So sorry, I'm just full of words! But whats new, right!!!

hot = ill

Friday 19 March.

Oh what a hot day! Rich and I had another full day of walking around and sightseeing in the city. We started off at the Royal Palace… which was not worth the steep $6.25 admission price. We walked through the Silver Pagoda, which is supposedly the best bit along with the throne room, and were so not amazed we decided to sit down and pull out our handy companion the Lonely Planet so it could tell us about it. We walked through again and at least knew which Buddha had thousands of gems and that the bed in the back was used on a coronation day. While attempting to take it in and appreciate it we got kicked out! I guess the lovely place is closed from 11-2. Ugh, seriously who is closed for more of the day then open! We wandered around and saw:: the Independence Monument (which you can’t get close to as its in the middle of a round-a-bout), Wat Ounalom (but not Buddha’s eyebrow hair which my books says they worship), St 178 (the art and craft boutique area), and more. We did not find: the Kiwi bakery that we spent ages looking for so Rich could enjoy a meat pie. But I did find another supermarket… that had gluten free muesli bars for me and Vegemite for Rich. I smiled and relaxed at my favourite coffee corner but didn’t enoy the coffee I had later… it gets to thumbs down.

Then we met up with Casey and Kate in Lakeside and while they enjoyed a more ‘expensive dinner’ (at $3/4) I went around the corner and had a $2 curry that was huge and came with a mango drink (which was remade for me with no yogurt!) Then we zipped off to an awesome drum show which we thought was going to be a puppet show! Oops, either way, money well spent… unlike the stupid palace. Then back to the Flying Elephant to enjoy the night. We went out to the Pontoon and enjoyed a bit of dancing before coming home and crashing.

Saturday 20 March.

I woke up feeling MISERABLE today. No, not a hangover as I was the only one NOT drinking last night. I think I didn’t drink enough fluids combined with my anti malaria pills which make me sensitive to the sun. Together it made me ill all day. I couldn’t keep food down and apple juice is about all that makes me happy. So basically I’m wasted away the entire day trying get hydrated enough… which would be much easier with something like Gatorade and attempting to keep something down.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Monkey in the middle... of a city!?!

Monkeys in the middle of the city

Wednesday, 17 March. While sitting in the internet cafe posting the blogs and pictures I met a Canadian girl, Casey. I ended up walking with her along the riverfront for while she told me about her time in Cambodia. We went to her favorite coffee place and enjoyed an ice coffee for 1500 r (less than .50). She told me about the orphanage she’s volunteered at for the last few weeks and how she helped them raise money. I then got to me a couple of the kids from the orphanage and decided if I stay in Siem Reap I’d maybe volunteer with them. The only down side is most of the volunteering is trying to raise money for them as they are so desperately in need. Obviously that’s not bad it just seems that they get turned down more often than not. I spent the rest of the day meandering down streets, through markets, stalls, etc and just people watching. I’m just enjoying taking it all in. Don’t think I’ll get sick of it! Later that night I was attempting to walk to Lakeside when I tripped (surprise surprise) and stubbed my toe. Now I thought I’d just broken my nail until I felt my sandal filling with liquid! Next stop was a street pharmacy where I bought alcohol to clean it, iodine and some bandages! Pictures below!! Next I met up with Thomas, a local Couchsurfer at Frog and Shamrocks to enjoy the festive St Pats day. We enjoyed a jug of margaritas, hey, it was greenish and I can’t drink beer! Then we went to Rory’s Irish pub where I met up with the two girls that volunteer at Sunshine Orphanage.

Thursday, 18 March. What a day! A guy from the hostel and I made quite the circle of Phnom Penh today! It was a little climb to the top of a hill…and on the way I noticed monkeys! Yes, monkeys chilling in the park in the middle of the city! On the way down the hill I noticed an elephant. The locals have made an elephant ride for the tourists. I was impressed with his shoes, as they were a bit more stylish than mine! We then walked to the Central Market….where we had to walk through the construction site to make it through the other side. (Who ever said anything about hardhat only sites!) Next, the Royal Palace, which was closed for a 2 hour lunch break so we headed back to the awesome sidewalk coffee spot again for a sit down refresher!! Then we headed across the street to the National Museum which was impressive but a bit of a let down at the same time. We went back to the royal palace only to decide to go tomorrow morning. The ‘Russian markets’ were a bit too far to walk so we hopped into a tuk tuk which is becoming a bit less scary! Here one can find name brand clothes (banana republic, American eagle, etc) for a fraction of the price back home… look at your labels…many of your clothes are made in Cambodia! Next we ‘tuk tuked’ to lakeside and wandered around. Debated changing to a cheaper guesthouse but decided against it as you’re a bit separated from the city and all its marvels and more secluded in a type of backpacker utopia. Now I’m blogging and deciding which $2 curry I’ll have for dinner. I think I’ll splurge tonight, I’ve had 25 cent bowls of white rice the last two days!!

**FOOD*** In the past, I've often found traveling as a vegetarian to be extremely difficult. When no one speaks the same language its often hard to figure out which dishes contain meat and which don’t. Well, now imagine 6 months ago finding out that dairy and gluten cause your body to run havoc on itself. It was hard enough being in Australia and I knew travel, as a gluten free vegan would be a challenge, to say the least. My experiences so far have been interesting. I have a feeling I’ll be eating A LOT of plain rice and rice noodles. I found a western style supermarket today. The only useful thing that had was wheat free muesli (I’m hoping its also gluten free, I can’t find any in the ingredients!) other than that I bought some dry fruit to have as snacks. I wish eating was easier, I wish I didn’t have to be so careful and anal about everything… but its so worth it to feel like a human. It’s amazing how a bit of gluten makes me feel and the migraine I get from dairy. I also forgot how hard it is to get proper fruit and veg when not able to cook, as well!! Fruit I can buy from the market but vegetables need to be cooked. Ah, I love my difficulties!! While it may be impossible to be completely free of gluten/dairy while traveling I’m still giving it my best go!


(ok, i'm back on my computer... and having issues with the pictures...ugh, I will get the hang of this!!! I've loaded them onto my picasa and now can't get them on here!)

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Excited, overwhelmed, thrilled, nervous, exhilarating, and shocking….

Are the words I would use to describe my first day in Cambodia. Now this is Southeast Asia!

Goodness me, I knew what I was getting myself into but it doesn’t make it any less shocking to the system! The first thing I had to do was bargain to get a cheap ‘tuk tuk’ ride from the airport to the hostel. Now for those that don’t know, all drivers have deals with certain guesthouses and try thus try to sell you on the ‘best one.’ I was having none of it. I knew the name of 2 hostels and was keen to see if I could find some backpackers and didn’t want a guesthouse!

Getting to the hostel is a completely different story. Everyone has seen the crazy driving in movies and on tv. But let me tell you… when you have bikes, motos, tuk tuks (I don’t even know if they’re called that here), cyclos, cars, big trucks all vying for the same 1 or 2 lanes it’s a BIT insane! Lanes are not important, horns are. Beep if someone is going to slow or blocking your bit. It’s a case of the bravest and biggest win. To add to the craziness most intersections are a game of chicken. There are some more major intersections with lights (that are mostly followed) that have awesome symbols and count down the time til green/red, respectively. Now I arrived to the capital of Cambodia so that means CITY. If you recall, they aren’t my favorite thing! SMOG, dust and everything was insane! Many drivers of the aforementioned vehicles wear face masks, and I reckon it’s a good idea I start back on my allergy meds!! I had a huge smile on my face the whole ride to the hostel! What and adventure!

After setting my two feet back on solid ground (seriously, I was scared at the start of the ride!) I realized any adventure would have to wait until after a nap! A couple hours later I was refreshed, showered and ready to go with the two girls from my hostel on that adventure! What better way to start my time in Cambodia than visiting the killing fields. We hopped back in a tuk tuk for a 15 km ride South of Phnom Penh which allowed us to see industrial bits, some villages, and day to day life (well, as well as going by it allows).

I’ll be the first to admit, I’m a big history buff, but not very up to date about anything in Southeast Asia. I know tid bits of info and stuff I’ve learned/heard over the years but that’s about it. The Choeung Ek Killing fields were used to mass slaughter prisoners in the late 1970s. Children were thrashed against trees and decapitated, men and women were often beaten to save bullets. They got off trucks, blindfolded, silent and often killed right away. Children and women, famous singers/actors/models, or being a foreigner (I believe 9 Australians) would not spare one the cruelty. Walking around the killing fields clothes and bone fragments are still visible in the dirt. A 17 story (I’m drawing a blank on the Buddhist monument name) was built to honour all those who lost their lives. Many of the mass graves were unearthed and the bones are separated by type (female/male/age) of skulls on level 2-10, clothes on 1, and the rest of the bones on 11-17. It was humbling to walk around and be face to face, literally, or so many innocent victims that didn’t have a chance. To realize this was happening the year my brother was born was a bit terrifying. (While not exactly within my lifetime, its only 3 years before I was born.) The only other time I’ve been as humbled was walking through Auschwitz. It really makes me wonder about humans and who we are or claim to be.

We then went to the Genocide (properly named- Tuol Sleng museum) which was a high school before it was turned into a prison. S21 as it was known was where people were kept before taken to the killing fields. Prisoners were tortured and the thoughts were that it was helpful and cheaper to not have to transport and deal with them anymore. What once had been classrooms had obviously hastily been constructed into cells.

After the humbling afternoon I decided to walk around the market down the street. I was on a mission to buy a Cambodian SIM card so I can communicate. On my travels I’ve had some amazing adventures having a local number! Funny fact the hostel owner told me; Cambodia has more cell/mobile phone companies than any other Country in the world. Its shocking to see all the different options I had. There are at least 10 different prefixes (011, 012, 089, etc) that I keep seeing around town. Makes me wonder why such a poor country needs so many mobile phone providers but I guess the competition makes it cheaper? I wandered through the food market, down to the river and up the park in the middle. My stroll brought me to the most bustling, relaxing looking place around sunset. The locals were all out playing badmitton, exercising, or playing a few other games in the park strip that runs across from my hostel.

Unfortunately, right as I was enjoying my stroll I started to feel really unwell. Good old anti-malaria pills got to me… a couple times! I had dinner and a rest to let my tummy settle, read about SEA and decided to write my blogs! This way they are written and when I get Internet connection they can go up, super fast! I know they are way long and probably boring to most. But I thought I’d get back into blogging… for now anyways! Well, sleep beckons as I know at sunup its going to be lively outside my window and I think that’s only 5 hours away… I’m not so sure though seeing as I’m in the Northern Hemisphere now!

Lets see what tomorrow brings!

(Sorry, I KNOW the pics are messed up, loaded on top of each other, etc. I can't go back and fix it.. so just pretend it looks normal! I guess my only option is to do 'no layout' and have them all in one line down the side.)




























Home is where my backpack lies

Well, as I’ve been known to do from time to time, I completely procrastinated getting any vaccines to come to Southeast Asia. However, in my defense, I spent the last 7 weeks in the middle of Kakadu National Park without regular phone or internet (so no research available and no clinics near with which to get jabbed. When moving up my flights out of Australia, I did consider staying in Darwin to do some vaccines but decided I could do them in Singapore. And on top of that I decided I didn’t need to spend much time there as it is not on the top of my ‘must see’ places.

With that in mind, I arrived in Singapore, got through customs, found the MRT (train) and my hostel all by 830 on Sunday night without any hassles. My first thought was how WEIRD it was to be back in a hostel. Yes, I stayed in some in NZ/Aus but it was a different context in my mind. I had more belongings and felt lived there (or somewhere close by). In my mind I kept saying a combination of things: “What in the world are you doing starting this craziness again!?! I’ve missed the hostel world with random strangers turned instant friends. I wonder how much more I can get rid of out of my backpack!”

I spent a lovely night and morning talking to some great people and was in no rush to go explore the crazy city of Singapore. If you didn’t know, I’m NOT a city person. I do not enjoy the craziness, people, buildings and anything else that comes with them. I finally set out for the day to figure out where to get some vaccinations. Turned out I needed to go to the Travllers Clinic at one of the hospitals. In total it cost me $250 to get: two shots, 4 months anti malaria pills (they have to be taken for 1 month after leaving the region), and the actual visits to the two clinics. Not bad, and I reckon cheaper than it would’ve been in Aus and a much more enjoyable experience. I then ended up exploring a bazillion shopping centres. I was overwhelmed at seeing so many old brands. Its been almost 3 years since I left home (& 2 years since London) so to see the old recognizable brands, stores, etc again was pretty crazy. I know I didn’t spend the last 2 years in the middle of the outback but I did spend hours just wondering around the shops… and buying nothing buy some fruit.
Thailand Dragon fruit to be exact. I’d tasted it once and thought the colors were pretty awesome. Here are some pics (sorry, I wasn’t being clever, just trying to get the contrast in colours).

I continued my aimless wonders, exploring Singapore from the MRT station that led to countless malls (seriously!) never feeling the need to venture out into the torrential downpour that was there that day. In my desire to avoid the city, smog, cars, etc I did alright. I did walk through China town (keeping with the shops) which was one of the best I’ve ever seen.

I met up with a Dutch couple in Little India for dinner. We did our own money exchange (they were heading to Aus and I needed USD coming to Cambodia where they’d just left). Enjoyed a great night of convo and then they left to the airport, and I shortly after.

One of the joys of backpacking on a budget is well, being frugal. I found out the MRT and buses didn’t run at the early hour I’d need them so my only option was a taxi. Of course, I found this out only after I’d paid for both nights. Well, in the end I decided to forfeit my money on the bed as I’d save heaps more taking the train before 11 (to get my deposit on the travel card before that office closed). I put my big bag in left luggage and then attempted to sleep. It was a painful attempt. The construction all around, hard annoyingly spaced curved plastic seats did nothing to help the matter. Needless to say I was thrilled to get onto the flight where I slept from sitting down for about 1-2 hours! Best nap, ever!





Well, I didn't take many photos.. and I've got to sort out the issue with the amount of online storage...so I guess no pics for now :-(